givenchy: 7 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

While Givenchy Very Irrésistible for women turned into something quite sharp on my skin, the masculine version held an altogether different experience. Created by Pierre Wargnye, the fragrance has recently been released, featuring a beautiful bottle that fades from black to emerald green. Notes: grapefruit, star anise, mint; mocha, sesame seed; Virginia cedarwood, hazelnut wood.

The first impression is of grapefruit and mint leaves dusted with a bit of confectioner’s sugar, a cool mélange sweetened just enough to take away the astringent edge. A combination of mocha and sesame seeds results in a chocolate accord that resurfaces slowly underneath mint leaves and citrus peel shavings and creating a subtle gourmand sensation. It is gentle and teasing, a facet that I found very appealing. However, the chocolate stage is still veiled by a tart green note that remains present until the drydown. The translucent quality of this green ornamentation reminds me of a lime slice covered thin crisp layer of molten sugar, tart, spicy and pleasantly bittersweet.

The end result is underscored by cedar and a sharp green note, which is extemely pronounced on my skin. Its loudness upsets the balance of the composition, especially the seductive chocolaty accord. Nevertheless, it is still interesting, which is not something I can say about the majority of masculine fragrances.

Photo: Liv Tyler, the face of Givenchy Very Irrésistible campaign.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Givenchy L’Interdit was created for Audrey Hepburn in 1957 by Francis Fabron on a commission from her friend and a famous couturier, Hubert de Givenchy and subsequently discontinued in the 1990s (in the US only, by all accounts, as it was still available in Europe). The House of Givenchy decided to reintroduce the fragrance in 2002 while reformulating it in order to make it more appealing to the younger generation. While Jean Guichard and Olivier Gillotin are talented perfumers, the outcome is a pleasant fruity-floral, well crafted, but not particularly memorable.

As for the original L’Interdit, it was a fragrance of elegant beauty, with a playful side. The opening notes are of aldehydes paired with bergamot, which soften considerably as the fragrance is allowed to meld into the skin and reveal soft peach and strawberry–ripe fruit warmed by the sun–on the floral backdrop of rose, jasmine and iris. The floral notes are not distinct, instead presenting a beautiful swirl of abstract shapes, with the edges blurring into each other. Yet, above this refined melody, spicy carnation adds some pleasant honeyed warmth, thus enhances the floral voices. Matte glow of amber paired with the earthy opacity of vetiver forms an elegant base upon which the floral notes recline, veiled by a powdery mist.

Photo: Paramount Pictures publicity still, 1956. audreyhepburn.com.