iris: 65 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The allure of the Annick Goutal house lies in the sheer diversity of genres within its portfolio, from bold Sables to delicate Duel, from vivacious Grand Amour to demure Le Chèvrefeuille, from femme fatale Passion to puerile Petite Cherie… Heure Exquise is one of the most classical compositions from the house, a soft floral orchestration dominated by iris.

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“Exquisitely elegant” was the first impression that formed in my mind as I smelled Prada Infusion d’Homme. It also struck me right away as a masculine fragrance that eschews the conventions of masculine perfumery: dihydromyrcenol (a citrus-lavender aroma material that is commonly used in masculine scents) is not noticeable, citrus is dealt with a light hand, florals are magnified. Created by talented perfumer Daniela Roche-Andrier, who is a nose behind many of Prada’s fragrances, Infusion d’Homme translates Prada aesthetic at its best—subtle, sophisticated, understated, yet somehow dramatic nonetheless.

Continue reading →

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Kenzo Flower is an example of a well-crafted and unique fragrance, which is neither a hard-to-find niche nor a revered classic from the turn of the 20th century. Created by perfumer Alberto Morillas and launched in 2000, it still remains as one of top selling fragrance in Europe, along with marvels like Chanel No 5, Dior J’Adore, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, Thierry Mugler Angel and CK One. Flower is a beautiful example displaying that an impressive sillage and tremendous lasting power do not have to conflict with a nuanced and delicate overall impression. In fact, throughout its development, Flower retains a soaring, radiant quality, which is quite unexpected in a floral oriental blend.

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

As much as I love the complex perfumes that are the olfactory equivalents of Tolstoy’s War and Peace, I am always looking forward to Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria collection, which tends to feature much more lighthearted fare. The selection runs the gamut from ingenious Pamplemousse to lovely Herba Fresca to decidedly dull and un-kiwi like Tutti Kiwi. This year’s Laurier Réglisse and Figue Iris caught my eye with their unusual and potentially brilliant pairings—bay leaf and licorice, fig and iris. I felt as curious about experimenting with these ideas in the kitchen as about smelling them on my skin. …

Continue reading →