l’artisan parfumeur: 47 posts

 

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The fragrance industry is in dire straits these days, a fact that is exacerbated by the economic crisis. Each new launch for a brand is becoming more of a gamble, more of a risk. For one of my projects, I spent last week smelling over 100 recent launches and at the end, I was shocked at how few I could remember at all. At times like this, a surprising and memorable fragrance is a wonderful discovery. Such was L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Traversée du Bosphore (and to a lesser extent, Coeur de Vétiver Sacré, which I shall discuss separately.)

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The lush complexity of tuberose is bewitching: the intense sensuality of its aroma; the surprising layering of green, mineral and creamy notes; the contrast between wet petally and ripe fruit facets. Although perplexing and challenging, this flower offers a rich source of inspiration to a perfumer. Even a brief glance at the L’Artisan Parfumeur tuberose collection reveals that it can be treated in strikingly diverse ways: as a coconut bonbon (Tubéreuse, first launched 1978 and now sadly discontinued,) an innocent ingénue in white (La Chasse aux Papillons), opulent, with an emphasis on jasmine notes (La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême,) or as a heady, creamy and spicy accord (La Haie Fleurie de Hameau). Nuit de Tubereuse, a fragrance by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour and launched this spring, presents yet another tuberose treatment: earthy, musky, with a delicious tropical fruit accent.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s entry into the blossoming organic skincare market has resulted in Jatamansi, a line of body products based on the healing extract of the Himalayan nard plant. L’Eau de Jatamansi is a scented body mist, which is a part of the Jatamansi line. Opening up on a crisp brightness that alternates between the verdancy of fresh grass and the peppery warmth of sun parched herbs, L’Eau de Jatamansi never loses its subtle aura. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Navegar is a scent of stones, shells and driftwood collected on the beach. The woody dryness almost makes me feel sand grains scratching my skin, and as the composition begins its panoramic unfolding, I notice a touch of salty freshness, which provides an interesting counterpoint to the spices and woods comprising this Olivia Giacobetti’s creation for L’Artisan Parfumeur. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The initial crisp clarity of Fou d’Absinthe gives only a slight hint to its beguiling character. Although the newest release created by Olivia Giacobetti for L’Artisan Parfumeur retains the luminous quality present in her other work, it is a substantial composition, especially for the perfumer known to create fragrances that are better understood as olfactory dreams rather than cold realities. Yet, considering the mysterious and controversial drink serving as an inspiration for the perfume, Giacobetti’s latest creation weaves a fantasy of its own, and I cannot resist partaking in it. …

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