spices: 20 posts

by Michelle Krell Kydd

Love potion. The word has the taste of alchemy, dry ice and witchery. The concept of food as a talisman is not a new one, but when it is attached to love there seems to be an unending string of incarnations. It is no wonder; every act of coupling has a unique quality and whether or not it is intended, the potential for creating new life is written into the physical expression of affection. In that tide of energy, identities are exchanged, traded and temporarily obliterated. Each person reemerges slightly different, yet more themselves than they were before. How could one not try to pierce that mystery by engaging the sense of taste? …

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Michelle Krell Kydd ended her article Saffron : The Flavor and Fragrance of Joy with the promise of sharing the recipe for saffron cake. Although saffron lends itself to many preparations, both sweet and savory, I find that the nutty warmth of whole wheat and the piney freshness of cardamom are the perfect backdrops for the full range of saffron’s flavor. In Indian and Middle Eastern desserts, saffron is often paired with cardamom, rose and the velvety richness of milk. Whispers of this classical composition can be noticed in this quick-bread. It combines the lightness of the crumb with the delicately chewy texture of the toasted crust. The voluptuous flavor of saffron lingers beautifully, attesting to the perfect name for this cake—Saffron Kiss.…

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by Michelle Krell Kydd

Saffron is a spice that needs no introduction. It infuses whatever it touches with a distinct golden hue, adding an aroma that resembles the commingling of hay, honeyed musk, leather and almonds. To taste saffron is to know how unnecessary words are in the vocabulary of pure joy. From discovery to repeated exposure, the flavor and fragrance of saffron is continuously revelatory, like a great passion that leaves one yearning for more. …

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In fragrance as in fashion, there are waves of trends not only in terms of the style of a composition but also for certain ingredients. Pink pepper (often referred to as baies rose) is one such example. Its bright, resinous fragrance with an effervescent fruity sweetness lends itself to various arrangements, from the citrusy-woody elegance of Ormonde Jayne Isfahan (Isfarkand) to the animalic roses of The Different Company Rose Poivrée, among others. While I was familiar with pink pepper oil, I have never cooked with the peppercorns themselves. Unable to resist the temptation of something shiny and pink, I purchased a small packet and started to experiment. …

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Caron Parfum Sacré can be compared to a fine cashmere shawl as it clings to the skin and feels warm and smooth. Created by perfumer Jean-Pierre Béthouart in 1990, it is a spicy oriental, with a big rose in its heart. The first impression is a tingly rush of black pepper. Then, mace (the inner casing of nutmeg), cardamom and lemon grow stronger and richer.

For all its spicy notes, Parfum Sacré is not a dry, pungent fragrance, but caressing and enveloping. The rose softens the middle notes lending them a honeyed sweetness. Rose’s appearance can be compared to a gorgeous stranger entering the room–the clamor stops and every minute whisper is heard distinctly. That’s when I notice orange blossom and iris delicately hinting at their presence. Soon the woody accords undulate slowly lending a resinous aspect to the dry down. The smooth balsamic myrrh, sweet amber and smoky vanilla form the intricate drydown. To call Parfum Sacré sultry is probably an understatement! Still, it is not what I would call a bombshell perfume. Parfum Sacré lends itself to being worn as a comfort scent. On a cold winter day, it is a perfect scented choice–warming and rich, like a glass of mulled wine.

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