top sellers: 21 posts

Original:

Reformulation:

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

To say that Christian Dior J’Adore attained legendary status faster than any other fragrance created over the past ten years is in fact an understatement. Since its birth in 1999, this vivid fresh floral has been responsible for a family of more than 500 offspring, ranging from mainstream to niche, from Estée Lauder Pure White Linen to Dog Géneration Oh My Cat. I cannot even begin to count how often it is selected as a benchmark for developing new feminine fragrances especially with regards to radiance and diffusion. Yet, J’Adore is also a perfect example of how dysfunctional the fragrance market has become. Instead of being left alone to shine in its resplendent glory and to continue to top the list of global bestsellers, J’Adore has been reformulated and diluted by flankers to the point that its character has been attenuated and its message confused.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

According to an oft repeated story, the iconic Chanel No 5 fails miserably in fragrance market tests, with the derived conclusion that the success of this great fragrance is based on the clever marketing strategy and carefully maintained brand image. Considering that today’s market tests have produced some of the worst excuses for perfumes, I do not find this to be the logical inference. Although an elegant brand image is an important part of the story, it is not enough to explain the mystery, the draw and the timeless beauty of Chanel No 5. I realize that trying to write a post of reasonable length on this topic is an ambitious task; after all, Tilar Mazzeo wrote a whole book on No 5 and yet many felt that she missed some important elements. Instead, I would like to describe Chanel No 5 in its different forms as it exists today and to hear your thoughts. I am convinced that the reason for its iconic status, is above all, the impeccable quality and allure of the fragrance itself.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I enjoy re-reading books that struck me as memorable. As time passes and one gains more experience and knowledge, one’s perspective changes sufficiently to make new discoveries. Revisiting fragrance is not much different in that respect–the knowledge one gains in the interim makes one understand better the art and the pleasure of perfume. Estée Lauder Pleasures has been on my list to reevaluate for quite some time, largely because of its reputation as a modern classic. It was never a personal favorite–its clean and wholesome aesthetic runs counter to my love for things dark and mysterious. However, as I wear it, I cannot but admire its strong signature and its gorgeous layers of floral absolutes set against the crisp green notes. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It would not be an overstatement to say that Estée Lauder changed the face of American perfumery and revolutionized the way women treat fragrance. With Youth Dew, which was cleverly introduced as a bath oil, she managed to break the age-old stereotype of perfume as a gift from a man. With her subsequent fragrances, she enshrined American perfumery as a rival to be noticed. Created in 1985, Beautiful still remains a strong symbol of Lauder’s vision. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

At a time when there are 600+ annual releases, a fragrance that stays on the list of best-sellers is as much a rarity as a source of intense curiosity. My first encounter with Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue did not promise to develop into anything but a brief acquaintance—it was lighthearted, and sparkly, in marked contrast to my usual more brooding favorites. Yet, as I continued to study and delve further into perfumery, Light Blue would appear again and again. Not only is it one of the most popular fragrances on store shelves, it is also highly regarded by many top perfumers. Therefore, I resolved to take a closer look at Light Blue and decode its allure….

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