The Arabian Tales still retain perfumery under their spell… L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore took us on a journey to Ottoman era Istanbul. By Kilian Rose Oud suggested the heavily embroidered silks and glittering gold bangles of an Indian wedding. Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady transformed English roses into a Moorish garden. Even ordinarily minimalist Diptyque presented Eau Duelle as a silver foil decorated sweetmeat. Now, we can add three new chapters to the 1001 Nights with a trio from Armani Privé La Collection des Mille et une Nuits: Ambre d’Orient, Oud Royal and Rose d’Arabie.
Ambre d’Orient was created by Firmenich perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin, who is also responsible for the aforementioned Eau Duelle, Thierry Mugler Womanity as well as two terrific (though now discontinued) L’Occitane fragrances, Amber and Cinnamon Orange.
Ambre d’Orient takes the classical amber theme by constructing the amber accord around labdanum, traditional oriental balsamic notes and vanilla. The main point of difference is a sheer, fruity rose-jasmine accord, which gives the composition a playful, lively character. Herbal and incense accents further dispel the opaque richness of amber; while patchouli—another classical oriental note—gives a warm, glowing sensation to the vanilla and woods in the drydown.
Despite a lush dose of vanilla, Ambre d’Orient does not become cloying. In fact, for such a rich and bold oriental, it does not have the languorous heft of some fragrances in this genre. The fragrance clings to the skin like the softest of cashmeres, with enough sillage to be noticed. The closest equivalents would be Annick Goutal Ambre Fétiche and Tom Ford Amber Absolute; although by contrast, Ambre d’Orient is lighter and more radiant. It is a well-crafted, high-quality fragrance, but be forewarned, being Armani Privé, Ambre d’Orient is priced quite luxuriously!
Armani Privé Ambre d’Orient (fragrance family: oriental) includes notes of bergamot, thyme, incense, geranium, patchouli, oud, sandalwood, vanilla. Armani Privé fragrances are available from Saks5thAvenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York.
Photograph © Vera, all rights reserved.