March 2006: 23 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Named after the address of the Hermès flagship store in Paris, 24, Faubourg immediately conjures an image of luxury, supple leather and expensive scarves. Although the excess of good taste can be just as unfortunate as its dearth, 24, Faubourg avoids the clichés, toning down the decadent richness of florals with the dryness of patchouli. The sensual ambery radiance that pervades many of Maurice Roucel’s fragrances is evident in 24, Faubourg. Created just a year after the jewel-toned Tocade (1994) and two years before the chilly Gucci Envy (1997), 24, Faubourg is a beautiful compromise between the red lipsticked glamour of the former and the aloof stance of the latter. …

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This month Osmoz has an interesting feature on Italian fragrances, from Armani to Santa Maria Novella. A series of articles also includes a mention of Città di Kyoto, the newest fragrance from Officina Profumo Santa Maria Novella.

“A perfume that pays homage to two major cultural centers, in Italy and Japan, born of the twinning between the cities of Florence and Kyoto. Opening on notes of Iris (symbol of Florence) and Lotus (symbol of Kyoto), the light floral feel blossoms into a woodsy accord based on Cedar, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Ebony and a Vanilla note.” Read the rest of the feature on Osmoz.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The fifth Armani Privé fragrance, Cuir Améthyste, does not engage in any subtle interplays. In fact, subtle is probably the least appropriate adjective to use in describing this fragrance. From the dense tangle of powdery violet notes to the opaque vanillic-ambery base, Cuir Améthyste moves with a heavy step.

It might be surprising to discover that Cuir Améthyste is composed by Michel Almairac, the same perfumer who created the serene minimalism of Bois d’Encens and its more ornamental sibling, Gucci Pour Homme (2003). …

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Founded in 1981, Campos de Ibiza includes three fragrances. Colonia Agua de Rosas explores the beauty of the Mediterranean flowers with its notes of green apple, tangerine, orange, bergamot, freesia, magniolia, ylang ylang, carnation, violet, sandalwood, moss and musk. Colonia Cedro weaves basil, bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, juniper, cinnamon, sandalwood and white musk. Colonia Mandarina is a tribute to the island’s citrus fruit. Notes include tangerine, bergamot, lemon, verbena, orange, galbanum, petitgrain, artemisia, lavender, basil, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, geranium, jasmine, amber, moss and cedar.

Italian cashmere brand Cristiano Fissore has released two fragrance, Cashmere EdT Men and Cashmere EdT Women. Cashmere EdT Men includes notes of bergamot, pink pepper, elemi, ginger, cedar, cashmere wood, guajacwood, vetiver, teak, patchouli, amber, white Musk.  All of the aforementioned fragrances are available from first-in-fragrance.  Thank you, I.

The lovely photo of mandarins is from Seenobjects.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The newest fragrance from Diptyque, Eau de Lierre, convinced me that I have a while longer to wait for an intense green perfume as well for a Diptyque fragrance that can be compared in its originality to Eau Lente and Virgilio. Jardin Clos was disappointingly pale, Do Son was pretty, but not particularly outstanding. Tam Dao is probably my favorite out of the recent offerings; however, as much as I like its dry sandalwood accord, it is difficult to call it distinctive.

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Eau de Lierre is sheer, transparent and weightless. It reminds me of Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée and Philosykos. It has the same peppery driftwood note that appears in Andrée Putman Préparation Parfumée, which is accented by the delicate greenness noticeable in Philosykos. However, while Andre Putnam Preparation elegantly unfolds into a composition marked by the melancholy simplicity, Eau de Lierre does not move beyond its initial gauzy prettiness. Then, like the evanescent spring beauty of cherry blossoms, Eau de Lierre vanishes leaving a musky trace behind.

Admittedly, I by far prefer the more vivid exploration of green notes in Chanel No. 19, Balmain Vent Vert (original), Balmain Ivoire and Diptyque’s own green perfection, Virgilio to anything that can be found in this new Diptyque fragrance. On the other hand, for those who like the subtlety of Diptyque Ofresia and Philosykos, the translucent green touch of Eau de Lierre might be perfect. And yet, I cannot but hope that the next Diptyque will break with their recent trend for subtle and pretty.

Eau de Lierre’s official launch is supposed to take place in May. Other Diptyque fragrances are availalbe at Aedes, Bigelow Chemists, Fourseasonsproducts, as well as Diptyque boutiques in Paris, London, Boston, and San Francisco.

Photo: Ivy, from iamtonyang.com/