March 2006: 23 posts

The next World Perfumery Congress will take place in June (5th-9th) of 2007. It is an international event organized by the American Society of Perfumers. It has been held in Cannes since 1998, and that is where it is going take place next year. It is open to those who work in the industry as well as to anyone with interest in perfume.

Another conference shall be taking place in Grasse on October 25–27, 2006. “CENTIFOLIA: le Naturel est un Art” is a biannual conference examining the role of natural essences and providing a forum for examining the trends.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Terre d’Hermès proves that the best non-niche releases over the past year are taking places in the masculine perfumery. Dior Homme, an iris wrapped into warm, sweet leather, Lanvin Arpege Pour Homme, a velvety violet-iris fougere are among some of the recent examples. Likewise, the new fragrance by Jean-Claude Ellena, Terre d’Hermès, has a number of qualities that make it exceptional—chiseled refinement of its elegant structure, unconventional, transparent take on the woody notes and remarkable quality of its ingredients. The composition conjures the intensity of sunlight reflected against the white stones of Roman ruins.

Jean-Claude Ellena’s theme of multifaceted transparency explored in his other creations, from Cartier Déclaration to Hermès Un Jardin sur le Nil, will be immediately recognizable in Terre d’Hermès. Nevertheless, it seems as if the theme has received further polish, luminosity and elegance. …

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The Different Company is launching the new fragrance created by Celine Ellena called Sel de Vetiver, evoking vetiver roots macerating in a glass of water. Sel de Vetiver includes notes of cardamom, geranium, ylang ylang, and vetiver. (from cosmeticnews)

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

What would one expect a fragrance named Rose Poivrée, peppered rose, to smell like? One is about to wax poetic about dewy crimson roses and warmth of crushed spices. Unwashed body parts probably do not figure in that image, however remarkably this is exactly where The Different Company Rose Poivrée ends up. Animalic and vegetal, the composition belies its floral promise, and yet it captures a facet of rose that is not often associated with it—the waxy and pungent quality.

I have once been told a story by a young perfumer about composing a rose soliflore using very expensive rose absolute during his perfumery training in Grasse. His teacher, Jean-Claude Ellena, looked at the formula and asked him about the purpose of the ingredients. …

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Bergdorf Goodman now has the following new Guerlain fragrances in stock: Aqua Allegoria Grosellina (a red currant inspired composition with notes of white tea, raspberry and sweet acacia flower and Tutti Kiwi (contains notes of lemon, mandarin, vanilla and wood notes).

Moreover, the store has also obtained LIU edp, a reissue of 1929 Jacques Guerlain’s creation, an aldehydic floral in the style of Chanel No. 5. Notes of LIU include bergamot, neroli, jasmine, rose de mai, iris, amber, vanilla, woods. Call (212) 872-2734 to place an order.