“I have no interest in trying to reproduce nature … I want to transform it, create olfactory illusions. Perfume isn’t only about the scent of flowers. I can add molecules to make a fragrance harsh, soft, dry, fresh, bubbly, light, cool and warm,” says perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena in the LA Times article Perfume’s Master of Minimalism. The article notes various inspirations for some of Ellena’s famous creations, such as a glass of champagne served on a platter lined with fig leaves (Jardin en Mediterranée) or floral tonalities of Hermès leather (Kelly Calèche). The piece also quotes Jean Kerléo, the former head perfumer for Jean Patou and the founding president of the Osmothèque. Highly recommended reading!
Photo of Jean-Claude Ellena from Wikipedia.
4 Comments
Joyti: One of my favorite living noses…thank you so much for sharing the article! October 26, 2007 at 1:48pm
Aline et Valcour: Ellena ‘a unfortunate New York experience sounds like Ab Fab ‘s episode when Patsy goes to New York in order to “dictate” fashion but things don ‘t work out of course. on the other hand Patrick Demarchelier whom I hate is exactly the kind of frenchman who made it big in New York ‘s fashion industry, he represents the “make it smell like a woman in stilettos” mentality (only that his “woman” is a 17 yr old girl).
I love Kelly Caleche, this “cuir d ‘ange” is JC Ellena ‘s best fragrance since Rose Poivree (a beautiful sensuous raunchy rose scent extremely easy to wear because of its transparent and minimalist execution). Kelly Caleche is sexy, fresh, young but not generic, the minimalist execution is the key of its complexity and beauty, the perfume ingredients quality are the ones of high end niche lines. amazing lasting power for an eau de toilette. October 26, 2007 at 1:54pm
Dmitri aka Flacon007: Thank you for your previous post on best autumn fragrances. Please check your mailbox 🙂 October 27, 2007 at 7:27pm
joe805: Loved opening the Times on Sunday morning and seeing this article. It was the first thing I read.
Is it too late for me to become a perfumer’s assistant/apprentice somewhere? Any chance they’d need someone with absolutely no chemistry aptitude?
Sigh. Careers for my next lifetime…. lol. October 30, 2007 at 12:50pm