Victoria: 2569 posts

Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Perfume Giveaway

Today we have a generous giveaway courtesy to Frank. He is giving away a bottle of Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower (30ml, sprayed a couple of times only, box included). Frank says, “This fragrance was a hand-me down from a perfume collector friend, but I never could wear it and my wife doesn’t like it either. We prefer to give it away to someone who might enjoy it more.”

Frank can ship anywhere in the continental USA.

Disclaimer: Bois de Jasmin is not responsible for leaks or damage during transit or for lost packages.

Please answer all of the questions below to be entered into the draw. I will create two groups and randomly draw one winner from each.

1. Frank would like to ask for your suggestions of a summer perfume that is light but not a cologne. He is open to any recommendations, but he especially likes woods and leather. “Is there such a thing as a light leather?” he asks.
2. May I contact you via email to notify you of your win and share your email with Frank?

The contest is now closed, the winner is Melanie D. Congratulations! I will contact the winner via email shortly.

I would like to thank our entire Bois de Jasmin community for your generosity and kindness, whether it means giveaways like this, advice or comments.

Recommend Me a Perfume: May 2024

Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfume you are wearing!

Our June-July perfume class schedule is now open. The new classes include Vetiver, Balsamic Notes, Musk. We will decode what these notes mean, how they are used in perfumery and learn how to identify them. There will also a class on Japanese Incense that I’m particularly excited about. Jasmine, Tuberose and Incense will also be featured, which will give us a chance to talk about opulence. Also, due to your requests, I’ve added prices in dollars and a video recording option. Please take a look and let me know if there are other topics that you would like to study.

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

My Top 3 Perfect Iris Perfumes

The first time I smelled iris absolute, I stood for a few minutes with a paper blotter under my nose before I regained my senses. In one instant, I saw frozen petals and snow covered trees, and while the image of a winter garden that the essence conjured was vivid, I couldn’t easily describe the fragrance of the material in front of me. It smelled like nothing I had encountered before, and pinning down its radiant but surprisingly potent scent proved difficult.

When perfumers talk about the materials in their palettes, they distinguish between those that provide character and those that give effects. Vanilla, for instance, bestows a touch of sweetness onto anything that brushes past it, be it fruit or leather, while patchouli has so many facets that it will change the whole impression of a composition, to the point of drowning out other more subtle notes. In the same vein, even a small dose of iris can change a perfume and lend it polish and elegance.

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The Art of Ukrainian Bead Necklaces

Yesterday, Ukrainians celebrated Vyshyvanka Day, the day of the national embroidered shirt. This traditional garment has so much significance as an embodiment of quintessentially Ukrainian art and sense of beauty that its celebration is a day that many anticipate with pleasure. This week Ukraine’s eastern region of Kharkiv was heavily shelled by Russia, but whenever it was safe, people still came out into the streets wearing vyshyvanka. Certainly, vyshyvanka can be worn anytime and I have many pieces that range from exquisitely embroidered blouses to simple white shirts with subtle decoration.

A popular companion to vyshyvanka is a necklace. Ukrainian traditional jewelry is quite elaborate and there are many types of necklaces made of different materials–stones, coral, amber, ribbons, wood, glass. Some of my favorite traditional necklaces are of the beaded style. Gerdan is a wider, longer necklace that looks like a pendant. Kryza is even larger and it  falls like a collar around the neck (that’s the style you can see in the title photo.) Silyanka is a narrow, choker-style necklace.

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Rhubarb Sherbet Fragrances

Every spring I make a Persian rhubarb sherbet by cooking sliced stems and sugar in water. Once the flavor and pink color infuse into the syrup, I filter the liquid and add rose essence. Enjoyed from tall crystal glasses, the sherbet has a voluptuous taste that calls to mind the warm light streaming through the stained glass windows of the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque, a pink-tinted jewel of Shiraz. If you would like to replicate this experience, I invite you to take a look at my recipe.

 

Since perfumery has much in common with cuisine, rendering my sherbet into a fragrance accord with a similar ornate impression is not difficult. Rhubarb has a natural affinity with rose, violet and berries, because they are complementary notes (and raspberry, in a nesting doll twist, contains elements of both rose and violet, which makes it an especially felicitous partner.)  Jo Malone White Lilac and Rhubarb explores this combination by augmenting the floral layer of rhubarb with a cocktail of rose and lilac. It’s a bright and happy perfume, with a nod to retro glamour.

Rhubarb may seem like a modern note in the perfumer’s palette, but in fact, it has a classical pedigree. A subtle effect, of green crunch and mouthwatering tartness, is found in Miss Dior L’Originale and Carven Ma Griffe. Today perfumers have more ingredients with rhubarb inflections at their disposal, using tartness to temper the sugary notes currently in vogue. For a rhubarb dessert, I might select Yves Saint Laurent Baby Doll, a compote of rhubarb, grapefruit and musk, or Burberry Brit Red, a crème brûlée topped with candied jasmine petals and gingerbread.

Just as it gives an interesting twist to a gourmand, rhubarb also makes green and resinous notes shimmer. To achieve such an illusion, Olfactive Studio’s Flashback dilutes the fruit with vetiver and just enough apple for a hint of delicate sweetness. Aedes de Venustas Eau de Parfum is an even more striking composition–it tosses rhubarb slices with basil leaves and incense. The effect is neither liturgical nor gourmand, but as fresh and exhilarating as being caught in a spring rainstorm.

Another fragrance I like is Hermès’s Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, a creation by perfumer Christine Nagel. Nagel is well-known for her sultry compositions that wear like cashmere wraps, and with Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate she demonstrates that it’s possible to make a cologne seductive. She pairs rhubarb with citrus and red berries, but then she adds a dollop of musk to make the drydown suave and tender. The result is similar to my sherbet—opulent, rich, and just as delicious.

What are your favorite rhubarb fragrances? Also, if you cook with rhubarb, I’d love to hear what you make. 

Latest Comments

  • Kathy in Alaia Paris by Azzedine Alaia : Perfume Review: I love this perfume, I cannot smell it when I first put it on, but I have never had so many good comments about how it smells on me. I… June 20, 2024 at 4:26am

  • BeckyR in Recommend Me a Perfume: May 2024: Hi Cat~ You are so welcome. The Lanvin ‘Arpege’ is definitely a keeper imo…Lanvin also makes ‘Arpege Eclat’ which is lighter and fresher than the original ‘Arpege’…in any case I’ve… June 18, 2024 at 8:13pm

  • Sara C in Coffee and Flowers: It feels like nobody loves Cafe Rose by Tom Ford but I adore this fragrance and I get the coffee (I have an old formulation), sandalwood, and a bright rose.… June 18, 2024 at 2:37pm

  • Aurora in Coffee and Flowers: I never had the pleasure to try Café Tuberosa, you make it sound very interesting. Not a fan of coffee in fragrance, I think only in Faviol Seferi Insomnia where… June 18, 2024 at 11:04am

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