Christopher Sheldrake: 57 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

While tuberose can be restrained by a masterful blending, its sensual dark side reigned in, the true beauty of the flower is best evident in the dark fragrances. One such example is Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, a lush, unusual creation. It includes notes of tuberose, orange blossom, hyacinth, jasmine, musk, vanilla, styrax, nutmeg, and clove.

If one tries it on expecting sweet creamy tuberose, the reaction will be that of pure shock since the top notes are not unlike a mix of menthol and gasoline. It is completely unexpected and almost disconcerting. And then cutting through the icy veil, tuberose grows brighter and hotter. It is a rather representative rendition of tuberose, complete with its unique unpredictability, sweet creamy layers, rubbery accord and warmth of human skin.

If one judges fragrances by the top notes, this is a perfect example of the need to rectify that practice. Weathering the initial opening is worthwhile, since the ugly duckling can turn into a beautiful swan. Personally, I find the petrol redolent opening accords beautiful, much like I enjoy atonal compositions by Schoenberg. They provide a cool backdrop, against which the tuberose unfolds its dark sensual beauty. If I were forced to have only one tuberose, Tubéreuse Criminelle would be that selection.

Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle is at Les Salons du Palais Royal in Paris, at sergelutens.com, Aedes, Barneys and Luckyscent.

Painting: Two lovers by Riza ‘Abbasi, Isfahan, 1630. An examplary piece of Safavid dynasty art, featuring a favorite subject of the time–human body and its sensual expression.

If there is one perfume that captures the beauty of jasmine perfectly, it must be Serge Lutens A La Nuit.  It is a great example of the house’s ability to create an elegant, refined composition with a sensual edge.  This fragrance starts out as a heady dark jasmine, with a touch of spice to give the dry down some warmth.

It is more elegant than Creed Jasmal and much richer than Maitre Parfumeur & Gantier Jasmin. I find that applied lightly A La Nuit is vividly recalls the scent of night blooming jasmine. At first it is rich and decadent, an olfactory version of triple chocolate cake. Warm undercurrent of dark vanilla adds depth to the jasmine note. The drydown, however, is a bit of a surprise since it is much lighter and greener than the heart. A jasmine gold standard!

Serge Lutens A La Nuit includes notes of Indian, Egyptian and Moroccan jasmines, green shoots, honey, clove, benzoin and musk.  Jasmine blends really well with woods, especially sandalwood, and I love combing A La Nuit with either Lutens Santal Blanc or Santal de Mysore. Pure high quality sandalwood oil is another great way to add complexity to this composition. Then it truly becomes bois de jasmin, jasmine wood.