Patricia de Nicolai: 16 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

As much as I like Parfums de Nicolaï fragrances, from the vanilla turned into sultry darkness that is SacreBleu to the warm mulled wine tartness of Pour Homme, I have to admit that a few pose a frustrating dilemma—they smell far better on paper than they do on skin. The issue is not so much a matter of body chemistry, but rather that the warmth of the skin accelerates their development, forcing evaporation to occur quicker than one would have wished. My biggest disappointment of late is Mimosaïque—on the blotter, it opens up with a green milky almond tinged mimosa that recalls vintage Caron Farnesiana. On the skin, one enjoys fifteen minutes of mimosa glory before one is left with a sharp, thin musk redolent of inexpensive shampoo. The fact that the bottle resembles a hair care container does not help matters much. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfums de Nicolaï Pour Homme (2003) is a fragrance that defies all gender distinctions, being simply irresistible. Exploring the fragrances specifically designated for the opposite gender can be a fascinating experience. While the classical fougères like Davidoff Cool Water and Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir might be too quintessentially masculine for most women, many fragrances designated as Pour Homme can be confidently explored by women, particularly by those who would like a break from the voluptuous florals and the sweet fruity compositions. Thus, by way of example, Chanel Égoïste Pour Homme is a mélange of sweet woods layered with sweet mandarine cream. Le 3ème Homme de Caron is a dark smoky flower with an exciting, but subtle fougère facet. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfums de Nicolaï Vanille Tonka released in 1997 holds the prize for being one of the most sophisticated vanilla scents. Even though I do not care for heavy doses of vanilla in fragrances, Patricia Nicolaï’s creation was a pleasant surprise. On these days, when the autumnal chills are felt in the morning breeze, its sensual and warm embrace is wonderfully comforting.

The fragrance starts out with a soft smoky note of cinnamon ornamented by sweet tangerine and tart dry lime, which give a sensation similar to eating cinnamon flavored candies that simultaneously burn and chill your mouth. Tonka bean softens the cinnamon with its powdery softness. The scent melds into the skin beautifully, and when vanilla appears, it has an understated, soft, and slightly smoky quality that endows the final result with a hint of delicious sweetness. The elegant drydown touched by smooth balsamic frankincense is what elevates Vanille Tonka out of the gourmand vanilla realm.

The house has several boutiques, the locations of which can be discovered directly from Parfums de Nicolaï. Fragrances and ancillary products are available online at Beautyhabit, First-in-Frangrance, New London Pharmacy, Senteurs d’Ailleurs.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfums de Nicolaï Juste Un Rêve (1996), true to its name, is a dream of a fragrance. A dream of lush flowers dropping petals onto hot sand and of sweet haze of carefree summer. A burst of opulent monoi warms up the skin like a ray of sunshine. There is nothing bashful about its sumptuous scent redolent of coconut and white peaches. Yet, it is a perfect setting for the intertwining melody of luscious sweet rose and banana tinged jasmine. Creamy and satiny, it is a fragrance that stays close to the skin, yet entices if one is lucky to get close enough to the wearer. A whisper of iris balances out what could have been an overly sweet and lush drydown, resulting in a perfectly ornamented composition, which could not be described as anything but stunning.

I never fail to be surprised by the lack of attention Parfums de Nicolaï receive in the States, not only because the fragrances are masterfully composed, but also because the range of both personal and room fragrances is diverse and exciting. Perhaps, it is because the products are much more reasonably priced in Europe, while in the States, they incur a heavy markup. Parfums de Nicolaï were founded by Patricia de Nicolaï, a descendant of Pierre Guerlain, Jacques Guerlain’s brother, and her husband Jean-Louis Michau in 1989. The house has several boutiques, the locations of which can be discovered directly from Parfums de Nicolaï. Fragrances and ancillary products are available online at Beautyhabit, First-in-Frangrance, New London Pharmacy, Senteurs d’Ailleurs.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If citrus is associated for you with sparkling and fleeting (or worse, insipid lemony concoctions), Balle de Match will definitely be a pleasant surprise. Created by Patricia de Nicolaï in 2002, it is a combination of bittersweet citrus underscored with incense. The initial sensation is akin to biting into a grapefruit, that explosion of bitterness and juicy sweetness. The notes reveal themselves in kaleidoscopic patterns, verdant lime peel one moment and juicy white grapefruit pulp next.

The development of the composition resembles the flow of molten glass more than it does the sparkle of icy shards. The clear citrus notes do not vanish but meld into the heart laced with warm pepper and dry balsamic juniper. The citrus leitmotif persists in the base notes where it is joined by an earthy note of vetiver. Incense adds a smoky resinous sweetness that enhances bitter citrus wonderfully and gives it an exotic flair. The resulting impression is more of crushed pine needles than of pure lime peel, which I found very appealing. Balle de Match with its interesting interplay of clarity and darkness demonstrates how multifaceted citrus can be.

Painting: Wassily Kandinsky, Murnau-View with Railroad and Castle. 1909. Oil on cardboard. Städtische Galerie im Lenbachhaus, Munich, Germany. Abcgallery. The juxtaposition of light and dark in the composition of this work by one of my favourite artists seems to reflect visually the olfactory characteristics of Balle de Match as I experience them.

Update: Balle de Mat