Culture: 426 posts

Maurice Roucel is a perfumer whose work I admire for its originality, boldness and unapologetic sensuality, which are clear even in his “big brand” creations. He is the author of Hermès 24, Faubourg, Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur and Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, among many others. The following is an excerpt from a fantastic book by Clara Molloy called 22 Perfumers: A Creative Process. It features in-depth interviews with 22 perfumers such as Calice Becker, Dominique Ropion, Olivier Polge, Alberto Morillas, Annick Menardo and many others. The book is available in French and English editions and can be found on Clara Molloy’s website.

How did you enter the perfume industry?
At the time, when I started out in 1973, there were only people from Grasse in the perfume industry. I was born in Cherbourg. I arrived in Paris with my parents at the age of 5 and I stayed there. I was passionate about organic chemistry and theoretical physics. In 1973, Henri Robert, the creator of “No 19” by Chanel, hired me to develop a chromatography laboratory. I spent 6 years with Chanel. While I was there, I learned the profession of perfumer by myself; I was self-taught. But I still love organic chemistry, which I find extremely creative! For me, creation is everywhere. Anything can be creative. In my career, I’ve even found myself working on a shampoo. I find it refreshing to have a look elsewhere. There are also surprises in soaps and detergents. Today, it’s clear that in fine perfumery there are more resources, time–sometimes–and a broader scope.

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Do you have a favorite fictional character? What perfume would he/she/it wear?

Following in my mother’s footsteps, I have been an avid fan of Agatha Christie for as long as I can remember. These days I am enjoying the British TV series starring David Suchet as the incomparable Belgian sleuth, Hercule Poirot. In an episode “How Does Your Garden Grow,” he buys a bottle of cologne from Geo F. Trumper. The story does not mention the name of the cologne, only that it smells of lemons.  Correct dates aside, I imagine Poirot wearing Guerlain Habit Rouge, a fragrance with a distinctive hint of retro elegance. Miss Marple, on the other hand, is a Penhaligon’s Violetta woman in my mind!

I recently posted an excerpt from “A Guide to Elegance: For Every Woman Who Wants to be Well and Properly Dressed on All Occasions”, a delightful, little book written in 1964 by Genevieve Antoine Dariaux. Since there was a lot of interest, I decided to compile a series of other advice on selecting and wearing perfume. Some of it might be quite sensible, some–quite personal and esoteric, but I always find it interesting to learn how other women think about perfume and their fragrance wardrobes.

The following excerpt comes from a recently published book, Parisian Chic: A Style Guide by Inès de la Fressange.

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My article on Germaine Cellier, a perfumer I admire for her genius, confidence and ability to succeed despite all odds against her, appears today in Financial Times Magazine. In Renegade Perfumer, I talk about Cellier and one of her most famous creations, Robert Piguet Fracas.

by Elise Pearlstine

Close your eyes and imagine smelling a rose. Now imagine where you are and who you are with. My first memory is the warm, dewy, pure rose smell of roses along my back fence in my desert garden first thing in the morning. The next impression is the smell and sight of a mixed bouquet of rosebuds cut from my mother’s garden. I remember how the bright colors and subtle hues of different blooms contrast and how some roses stood tall while others gently bent over the edge of the vase. The smell of each was unique. The pleasure of walking in the garden, watching for thorns, cutting the perfect roses, finding an old treasured vase and arranging them for display is intimately mixed in with the scent of roses.

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