Culture: 426 posts

by Michelle Krell Kydd

When it comes to eating, nearly every perfumer I’ve ever had the pleasure of dining with qualifies as a sensualist. Perfumers don’t just taste their food—they live in its aura and bask in the afterglow. If the saying “you are what you eat” is worth its weight, then it would stand to reason that what someone chooses to eat first thing in the morning says a lot about that person’s character. …

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“To err is human. To loaf is Parisian,” said one of most illustrious writers of the 19th century Victor Hugo. I cannot say that loafing was a part of my Paris visit, although I tried to make time for it nevertheless. Loafing in Paris is synonymous for me with the walks down rue de Grenelle, one of my favorite streets in Paris for its quiet and gentle charm (and also for its numerous perfume and shoe boutiques.) The typically Parisian scent of black coffee and cigarettes felt intoxicating. The pale grey outlines of the buildings bathed in the sheer golden glow of the unusually warm winter sun attained a dreamlike character. Whatever fragrance I carried on the sleeve of my coat— Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Frédéric Malle L’Eau d’Hiver, Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette—it was perfectly in sync with both my mood and the atmosphere in the city. It was just magical, and even now, this feeling combining serenity and excitement is almost palpable.

I will certainly share more details on what transpired during my trip, especially since a short article will hardly do justice to all of the amazing encounters with the perfumers whose work I have always admired as well as the fragrant discoveries that took place over the past week. It is difficult to pick the main highlight of the trip; however, the visit to the Osmothèque was unforgettable. I went there with Michael Edwards, whose erudition and passion for fragrance enhanced the experience even more.

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If like me you are an avid admirer of Parfums Grès, from Cabochard to Cabotine and if you are interested in learning more about its history, a wonderful website Parfums Grès will be a great discovery. Besides photos and background on Alix Grès herself, the website features excerpts from Michael Edwards’s French Perfume Legends that revolve around the history of the house as well as a timeline of the entire collection. I have discovered a few fragrances that were new to me: Grès pour Homme (1965), Quiproquo (1976), Eau de Cologne Grès, Eau de Grès (1980), Alix Grès (1981). The water hyacinth scented Chouda (1959) has also captivated me.

Photo: Madame Grès evening gown with peplum, silk jersey, 1940, taken by George Platt Lynes. Please see more information about this stunning gown and photograph from The Met Museum.

Although the end of 2006 is still 2 months away, I anticipate Thierry Mugler’s Le Parfum coffret being the highlight of this perfume year for me. Fragrance exerts its power when it inspires dreams, stretches reality and allows one a glimpse into a world of fantasy. Ultimately, it is the easiest way to add beauty to the everyday routine. In this regard, fragrance does not have to be narrowly defined as liquid in a bottle, but can also include the aromas experienced when making a cup of coffee in the morning, walking past a freshly mown lawn, biting into a hot pastry, or enjoying a glass of wine with friends.

Le Parfum coffret offers artistic interpretations of scenes from the bestseller by Patrick Süskind, “Perfume: The Story of A Murderer”, the story of genius perfumer Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, who seeks to create the ultimate perfume amid the malodorous streets of France in the 18th century. However, Thierry Mugler’s coffret is even more than this—it is a reflection upon the history of perfumery, the essence of art in perfumery and the perfumer’s role. It offers a fascinating journey, the magic of which does not fade even after repeated exploration. …

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In his book, Les Sens du Parfum, the perfumer Guy Robert lists some of the perfumers whose work he considers to be especially outstanding, alongside with some of their most notable masterpieces. Robert is the author of such fragrances as Amouage Gold, Christian Dior Dioressence, Hermès Calèche, Hermès Equipage and my own favorite Hermès Doblis. I always considered this list as including the classics one definitely must try. Unfortunately, some of them are no longer available, or not available in their original form. If you have a particular interest in seeing a review of any of them, please let me know. Cordon Vert is the only one I have not tried from this list.

François Coty — Chypre, L’Origan, L’Ambre Antique, L’Emeraude, La Cologne Cordon Vert.
Jacques Guerlain — Mitsouko, Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue. …

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