Serge Lutens: 45 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

My appreciation of most musks is much more theoretical than practical, with Muscs Koublaï Khän being the ultimate sensual animalic musk. Serge Lutens Bois et Musc (a 1992 Chris Sheldrake creation) is a much more restrained fragrance, pairing vegetal musk with Atlas cedarwood. Like Muscs Koublaï Khän, it is sweet and animalistic, however cedar softens the musky notes and lends a satiny counterpoint. Whereas Muscs Koublaï Khän is a Luis Buñuel film, shocking and erotic, Bois et Musc is a much softer take on the sensual aspect of musk. It has an interesting quality of appearing much more innocuous than it really is by starting out gently sweet and smooth and then revealing its more animalic side in the drydown. Perhaps, not as innovative as Muscs Koublaï Khän, but more wearable for me.

Photo: Serge Lutens photography for a Shiseido ad.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Chris Sheldrake and Serge Lutens created Bois de Violette in 1992, inaugurating the stint of Serge Lutens as a leading figure of the perfume line for Shiseido at Les Salons du Palais Royal. There is a tendency both to relegate cedar to the masculine, while violet to the feminine domains. One is sharp, resinous and potent, another is soft, modest and sentimental. Yet, Bois de Violette blurs these conventional distinctions so effectively that it cannot but be appreciated for this reason alone. Of course, the ingenuity and the beauty of the composition is another reason to sample this fragrance.

The top notes settle into a mélange of violet leaves with their fresh cut grass scent and soft white cedar, which gradually allows a clear violet note to appear. At first, it is just a glimpse of violet, misted over by sweet and resinous notes, however, the adagio of violet gathers force and takes the center stage. Cedar in Bois de Violette acts like corps de ballet in Marius Petipa choreographed pieces, in which dancers in the background hold same poses for long stretches of time, with minor permutations, thus providing an essential backdrop, without which the ethereal beauty cannot be achieved. The violet is sweet enough to temper resinous notes of cedar, while cedar, in turn, prevents it from becoming a confection-type or powdery violet. It stays close to the skin, creating an olfactory vision of opalescent silk.

Photo: Swan Lake by St. Petersburg’s Ballet Theater. arts-world.co.uk. Swan Lake is an example of classical Petipa choreography.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens Cèdre (2005) is a flame caressing hot cedarwood curls. Its pairing of tuberose and cedar settles into a dark warm composition, with rather soft woodsy notes. Once again, Sheldrake&Lutens flight of fancy results in an enchanting Arabian vignette, taken from the One Thousand and One Nights. The sensual fluidity of the composition transports one from the fragrant pillows of Middle Eastern palaces through the spice stalls of the souks and into the confines of a tea house, where steam rising from the cups swirls amid heated conversations. Tuberose shimmers against the dark backdrop of resinous juices dusted with cinnamon. Heated by a hot breath of spices, the floral notes attain a clove ornamentation. This soft whisper of cloves echoes through the dark sweetness of wood. Ambery warmth suffuses the sonorous melody of the composition, adding an autumnal feel to the cedarwood foundation.

Picture: Limited edition bottle of Cèdre.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

While tuberose can be restrained by a masterful blending, its sensual dark side reigned in, the true beauty of the flower is best evident in the dark fragrances. One such example is Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, a lush, unusual creation. It includes notes of tuberose, orange blossom, hyacinth, jasmine, musk, vanilla, styrax, nutmeg, and clove.

If one tries it on expecting sweet creamy tuberose, the reaction will be that of pure shock since the top notes are not unlike a mix of menthol and gasoline. It is completely unexpected and almost disconcerting. And then cutting through the icy veil, tuberose grows brighter and hotter. It is a rather representative rendition of tuberose, complete with its unique unpredictability, sweet creamy layers, rubbery accord and warmth of human skin.

If one judges fragrances by the top notes, this is a perfect example of the need to rectify that practice. Weathering the initial opening is worthwhile, since the ugly duckling can turn into a beautiful swan. Personally, I find the petrol redolent opening accords beautiful, much like I enjoy atonal compositions by Schoenberg. They provide a cool backdrop, against which the tuberose unfolds its dark sensual beauty. If I were forced to have only one tuberose, Tubéreuse Criminelle would be that selection.

Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle is at Les Salons du Palais Royal in Paris, at sergelutens.com, Aedes, Barneys and Luckyscent.

Painting: Two lovers by Riza ‘Abbasi, Isfahan, 1630. An examplary piece of Safavid dynasty art, featuring a favorite subject of the time–human body and its sensual expression.

If there is one perfume that captures the beauty of jasmine perfectly, it must be Serge Lutens A La Nuit.  It is a great example of the house’s ability to create an elegant, refined composition with a sensual edge.  This fragrance starts out as a heady dark jasmine, with a touch of spice to give the dry down some warmth.

It is more elegant than Creed Jasmal and much richer than Maitre Parfumeur & Gantier Jasmin. I find that applied lightly A La Nuit is vividly recalls the scent of night blooming jasmine. At first it is rich and decadent, an olfactory version of triple chocolate cake. Warm undercurrent of dark vanilla adds depth to the jasmine note. The drydown, however, is a bit of a surprise since it is much lighter and greener than the heart. A jasmine gold standard!

Serge Lutens A La Nuit includes notes of Indian, Egyptian and Moroccan jasmines, green shoots, honey, clove, benzoin and musk.  Jasmine blends really well with woods, especially sandalwood, and I love combing A La Nuit with either Lutens Santal Blanc or Santal de Mysore. Pure high quality sandalwood oil is another great way to add complexity to this composition. Then it truly becomes bois de jasmin, jasmine wood.