Ambery Family: 53 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

For a lover of oriental compositions, Paul & Joe Bleu created by Pierre Bourdon, with its ambery notes folded into the velvety creaminess of woods and vanilla, would be a nice discovery. Fairly classical composition at first glance, it weaves the sweet incense and tobacco nuances of oud into its rich veil, creating an interesting orchestration that calls to mind nocturnal images. At the same time, experiencing Bleu makes one understand why oriental compositions are often compared to cashmere, for its gently powdery drydown embraces the skin in the warm and soft fashion.

The initial impression suggests a sparkling spicy composition with the complementarities of cool spices and bergamot, the crisp tartness of which barely hints at the sensuality of patchouli and the powdery sweetness of coumarin underscoring the base. The crystalline quality of the top notes melts away under the intensifying effervescence of spices. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Between Guerlain Shalimar (1925) and Lalique Le Parfum (2005) there lies a period of eight decades, yet their oriental roots link the two fragrances. Indeed, it is fascinating to ponder how certain accords manage to endow the composition with a unique feel and an aura that is difficult to forget. Vanillin, coumarin and patchouli comprise the core of Shalimar, which spills into a cascade of warm and animalic notes after the initial diamond-like sparkle of hesperidic notes. The magnificent tour de force of the composition inspired its own family, including oriental fragrances as diverse as L’Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant (as well as Piment Brûlant and Poivre Piquant), Guerlain Habit Rouge, Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, Cartier Must de Cartier and Christian Dior Addict, among innumerable others.

Lalique Le Parfum is the first oriental fragrance in the Lalique range, and while it relies on the classical vanilla, patchouli and coumarin accord, it is unmistakably a modern oriental fragrance….

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The leather has an effect of adding a certain austere strength to fragrances, grounding the airy sparkle of green notes and the sweet voluptuousness of florals. Wrapped around soft woods and iris, the leather notes make Chanel Cuir de Russie a composition of chilly elegance. Touched by the apricot-like sweetness and the woody violet darkness, the leather impression is softened to suede in Serge Lutens Daim Blond. The darkness of leather under the vivid verdant veil of galbanum is a memorable juxtaposition explored in Robert Piguet Bandit. The indolic jasmine of Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse harmonizes with the sensuality of leather underscoring its base.

Leather permeated with fruity sweetness, VIP Room was created by the perfumer Benoit Lapouza, under the artistic direction of Rami Mekdachi, as a tribute to the legendary dance club originally located in St. Tropez and its host Jean-Roch. On the scent strip, the top accord of flowers and hesperidic notes has an airy, sunny quality before it begins to segue into the sweet, subtly rubbery smokiness of the heart. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If one were to enumerate perfumers who wielded great influence over the course of perfume history, François Coty is among them. A person of great talent and creativity, he gave the world fragrances that would serve as inspirations for many perfumers, despite the fact that he did not have formal perfumery training. Born in Ajaccio, Corsica in 1874, Coty realized that in order to expand the perfume market, the high quality product must be presented in beautiful packaging and at a reasonable price. While marketed as luxury, he deemed that perfume had to be affordable for people of every socio-economic class. While La Rose Jacqueminot (1904) was his first fragrance, incorporating new floral bases, L’Origan (1905) and Chypre (1917) would initiate two new genres of perfumery: soft sweet floral and chypre.

L’Origan (1905) cannot be mistaken for anything but a child of its times. Its soft powdery veil embellished with carnation, violet and heliotrope calls to mind gloves and Edwardian silhouettes. A precursor of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue (1912), L’Origan reveals the same bittersweet anisic top notes that sparkle like diamond dust in its powdery cloud. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Limited edition fragrances, especially when they present a variation on the existing composition, lead one to regard them with suspicion. Whatever the changes made, one cannot expect the effect to be dramatic. Yet, while L’Instant Eau de Noël Iris Millésime released for the winter of 2005 is not an altogether different fragrance from L’Instant de Guerlain (2003), the addition of woody iris and dewy floral notes results in an interesting twist on the original.

The original L’Instant was created by Maurice Roucel, the nose behind fragrances like Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Helmut Lang Eau de Cologne and Parfum, and Gucci Envy. L’Instant is both of Guerlain tradition and of modern trends. …

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