Anise & Licorice: 16 posts

Any number of different materials in perfume can give an anise effect: anise seeds, fennel, star anise, or synthetics like anethole. Anise has a sweet, spicy scent, with a pronounced green note.

The spicy sweet flavor we associate with licorice is due to a reverse association–licorice candy which doesn’t smell anise like on its own is usually flavored with anise oil or anethole. The true scent of licorice, the roots of Glycerrhiza Glabra, smells sweet, almost cloying, and caramelized. It’s rarely used in perfumery, but is a very important flavor ingredient.

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit : Perfume Review

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The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit was created by the daughter of Jean-Claude Ellena, Celine Ellena. The notes include jasmine, star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, sandalwood and amber. Upon application it is a wonderfully rich jasmine with a transparent quality.

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Sandalwood is a good match for jasmine, therefore the result is rather beautiful. After about 15 minutes the spicy ornamentation becomes evident. Cardamom is the one note that stands out the most for me, before the complete drydown, when amber overtakes floral notes.

I notice that jasmine fades rather quickly, leaving cardamom and amber to dominate. The translucent quality of the initial accords disappears, replaced by a dark spicy richness. The Different Company also includes Osmanthus, Sel de Vetiver, Rose Poivree, Bois d’Iris, and Divine Bergamote. Created by Jean-Claude Ellena, they bear his signature elegant style.

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