Citrus: 84 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It makes perfect sense to review Yuzu Rouge alongside Un Zest de Rose, because they share some similarities, primarily the rose and citrus pairing. Parfums 06130 were created by Raphaël Haury, a young nose behind Clarins Par Amour and several Azzaro fragrances. The opening of Yuzu Rouge is a tart effervescence of citrus notes, sweet lemon and dry lime. While they do not replicate the scent of yuzu precisely, the combination is vibrant and uplifting. Tea rose with its sweet fragrance weaves in gently around the citrus notes, softening the sharpness and astringency. A touch of blackcurrant provides a juicy note that permeates pink rose petals in the heart of the composition and lends a tart green accent that makes the resulting composition light and sparkling. I find it similar to Un Zest de Rose by Parfums de Rosine, with a touch more berry in the drydown, however while Un Zest de Rose is a white rose sorbet, Yuzu Rouge is a rose flavored drink. It is difficult to decide which is one better, because while Un Zest de Rose is slightly more complex, Yuzu Rouge has become my staple due to the fact that it is very easy to wear despite heat and humidity of the East Coast summers.

Available at Aedes and Takashimaya in New York (call 212-350-0100).

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Eau de Toilette

There are some fragrances that one cannot forget, even if for one reason or another, the love affair is suspended, and the bottle is not replaced. When I moved to the US, my perfume bottles were left at the old apartment and, alas, never retrieved. Cristalle was one of them. And then recently I stopped by a Chanel counter and reached for the slim oblong bottle. As the mist fell upon my skin, I was immediately swayed by its luminous clarity. Of course, I had to have a bottle right away.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If citrus is associated for you with sparkling and fleeting (or worse, insipid lemony concoctions), Balle de Match will definitely be a pleasant surprise. Created by Patricia de Nicolaï in 2002, it is a combination of bittersweet citrus underscored with incense. The initial sensation is akin to biting into a grapefruit, that explosion of bitterness and juicy sweetness. The notes reveal themselves in kaleidoscopic patterns, verdant lime peel one moment and juicy white grapefruit pulp next.

The development of the composition resembles the flow of molten glass more than it does the sparkle of icy shards. The clear citrus notes do not vanish but meld into the heart laced with warm pepper and dry balsamic juniper. The citrus leitmotif persists in the base notes where it is joined by an earthy note of vetiver. Incense adds a smoky resinous sweetness that enhances bitter citrus wonderfully and gives it an exotic flair. The resulting impression is more of crushed pine needles than of pure lime peel, which I found very appealing. Balle de Match with its interesting interplay of clarity and darkness demonstrates how multifaceted citrus can be.

Painting: Wassily Kandinsky, Murnau-View with Railroad and Castle. 1909. Oil on cardboard. Städtische Galerie im Lenbachhaus, Munich, Germany. Abcgallery. The juxtaposition of light and dark in the composition of this work by one of my favourite artists seems to reflect visually the olfactory characteristics of Balle de Match as I experience them.

Update: Balle de Mat

Created in 1889, Guerlain Jicky is at once a timeless classic and a remarkably modern fragrance.  One story is that Aimé Guerlain created it in honour of his English girlfriend; however, another version is that it was dedicated to his nephew Jacques Guerlain, whose nickname was Jicky. Jicky is considered to be the first fragrance to combine natural and synthetic essences.

Although it is undeniably an important starting point of modern perfumery, Fougère Royale by Houbigant (1882) was the first perfume to use a man made material: coumarin, an almond redolent ingredient derived from tonka beans. Jicky went out step further by combining coumarin and vanillin, another synthetic essence.

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