Iris: 79 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Out of all the gourmand fragrances following in Thierry Mugler Angel ‘s steps, Lolita Lempicka is still the most innovative example. Even when viewed against the whole body of gourmand perfumes launched since 1993, its originality and memorable contrasted character make it stand out. If Angel and Coco Mademoiselle have the dramatic and bold presence of a blonde in a tight red dress, Lolita Lempicka is a mysterious stranger in a black gown. The cleavage is perhaps quite low, but the effect nevertheless remains elegant.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The most surprising aspect of Hermès Hiris is the contrast between the softness of its composition and the strength of its character. Created in 1999 by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti, it exemplifies the style of perfumery that she went on to cultivate—linear, pastel toned etudes that are nevertheless quite memorable and distinctive. The iris in Hiris is a bold, vibrant note, yet wrapped in a soft aldehydic accord as if in layers of tulle. It appears cool, abstract and luminous. Perhaps this teasing, distant iris, like a vision of something beautiful through the fog, is what gives Hiris its introspective aura.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Ukiyo-e refers to the Japanese genre of wood block prints that depict nature, landscapes, town life, and pleasure quarters, with the word itself meaning “pictures of the floating world.” An allusion to evanescence, fleeting encounters and ephemeral visions is fitting for the style of perfumery that has become the trademark of Hermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. His fragrances are marked by minimalism and refinement, and Hermessence Hris Ukiyoé is no exception. It is a fresh green floral composition that is executed with all of the classical Ellena elements intact—sheer floral notes, watery green accords, subtle accents of woods.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The fragrance industry is in dire straits these days, a fact that is exacerbated by the economic crisis. Each new launch for a brand is becoming more of a gamble, more of a risk. For one of my projects, I spent last week smelling over 100 recent launches and at the end, I was shocked at how few I could remember at all. At times like this, a surprising and memorable fragrance is a wonderful discovery. Such was L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Traversée du Bosphore (and to a lesser extent, Coeur de Vétiver Sacré, which I shall discuss separately.)

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The allure of the Annick Goutal house lies in the sheer diversity of genres within its portfolio, from bold Sables to delicate Duel, from vivacious Grand Amour to demure Le Chèvrefeuille, from femme fatale Passion to puerile Petite Cherie… Heure Exquise is one of the most classical compositions from the house, a soft floral orchestration dominated by iris.

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