Leather: 44 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfum d’Empire seeks its inspirations in the annals of history, from the glory of Alexander the Great to the glittering decadence of the Russian monarchy. Cuir Ottoman tells a tale from the days of the Ottoman Empire, romantically painting the teeming bazaars of Istanbul, the supple leather of delicate gold embroidered slippers, and the rose gardens of harems. Even if the allure of Ottoman yore will not find resonance with everyone, an exploration of Cuir Ottoman’s leather impressions makes for an interesting experience. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

One of my niche discoveries this year was Parfumerie Générale, the perfume house established by Pierre Guillaume, a perfumer who came to this profession by way of chemistry. The line offers an interesting array of exotically named fragrances such as L’Eau de Circé referring to the enchantress in the Odyssey, Aomassaï inspired by the African wood carvings, and Jardins de Kerylos capturing the salty breezes of the Cyclades islands. The notes are just as unusual: Cumaru wood in Musc Maori, Canapa Sativa seeds in Coze, Matale black Tea in L’Eau Rare Matale.

Out of all the fragrances I have tried thus far in the line, Cuir Venenum was the one that captured my attention the most. A leather steeped in the nectar, it combines the smoky balsamic pungency of animalic notes with the luxurious floral sweetness. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The fifth Armani Privé fragrance, Cuir Améthyste, does not engage in any subtle interplays. In fact, subtle is probably the least appropriate adjective to use in describing this fragrance. From the dense tangle of powdery violet notes to the opaque vanillic-ambery base, Cuir Améthyste moves with a heavy step.

It might be surprising to discover that Cuir Améthyste is composed by Michel Almairac, the same perfumer who created the serene minimalism of Bois d’Encens and its more ornamental sibling, Gucci Pour Homme (2003). …

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Chanel No. 19 needs no words of praise because its beauty renders them superfluous. Even its seemingly difficult facets—the aggressive verdancy of galbanum, the woody duskiness of iris—are arranged in such a harmonious manner that one cannot but admire how the green, vibrant top notes melt into the leathery darkness of the base.

The number 19 refers to Coco Chanel’s birthday, August 19th. The story goes that No.19 was her personal fragrance; however, this is unlikely, since the perfume was composed only in 1970, less than a year before her death. No. 19 was created by the Chanel in-house perfumer Henri Robert, who is also responsible for the chypre austerity of Pour Monsieur (1955) and the shimmery bite of Cristalle EDT (1974). Robert created only a few fragrances for the house; however, his contribution cannot be measured by the number of perfumes linked to his name. Being responsible for maintaining the quality of Chanel No. 5, searching out the best quality materials and adapting the formula for the parfum de toilette and eau de toilette, Robert has to be credited for the continuing success of No. 5. …

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Meeting Balmain Jolie Madame for the first time is an encounter that leaves one intrigued by the unpredictable personality of this beautiful stranger. The dazzling shimmer of the green floral notes has a lighthearted character, however as soon as one is ready to see a smile of its dewy heart, the veil of leathery smokiness falls darkening the gentle features.

Yet, predictability is not the quality that Germaine Cellier’s creations possess. One of the most avant-garde perfumers, she worked against the classical tradition by exploring the raw materials that most perfumers of her time would reject for their crude potency and strength. She was not afraid to overdose Balmain Vent Vert with galbanum, which made the fragrance seem as if it were exploding on the skin into the cascade of emerald dust. The original version of her Bandit possessed so much animalic robustness, it seemed almost shocking to wear in public. …

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