Orange Blossom & Neroli: 64 posts

Original:

Reformulation:

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If one were to enumerate perfumers who wielded great influence over the course of perfume history, François Coty is among them. A person of great talent and creativity, he gave the world fragrances that would serve as inspirations for many perfumers, despite the fact that he did not have formal perfumery training. Born in Ajaccio, Corsica in 1874, Coty realized that in order to expand the perfume market, the high quality product must be presented in beautiful packaging and at a reasonable price. While marketed as luxury, he deemed that perfume had to be affordable for people of every socio-economic class. While La Rose Jacqueminot (1904) was his first fragrance, incorporating new floral bases, L’Origan (1905) and Chypre (1917) would initiate two new genres of perfumery: soft sweet floral and chypre.

L’Origan (1905) cannot be mistaken for anything but a child of its times. Its soft powdery veil embellished with carnation, violet and heliotrope calls to mind gloves and Edwardian silhouettes. A precursor of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue (1912), L’Origan reveals the same bittersweet anisic top notes that sparkle like diamond dust in its powdery cloud. …

Continue reading →

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Commencing the tradition of distilling a particular essence and creating a composition around it, L’Artisan Parfumeur is going to launch Fleur d’Oranger in October of 2005, a fragrance created by Anne Flipo—the nose behind such fragrances as La Chasse aux Papillons, Verte Violette, and Un Zeste d’Été—from the flowers, twigs and leaves of the Tunisian orange tree.

When the orange blossoms unfold their white petals, the scent that fills the air cannot be described in any way, but as an essence of sunshine. Its soft sweetness underscored by luscious opulence is sustained by a lovely green note that almost fades into citrusy verdancy, without ever managing to part ways with the floral heart. Fleur d’Oranger exhibits the radiant exuberance of the orange blossom brilliantly, with just a touch of emerald lushness of leaves heated by the sun. As the first scintillating floral notes subside, a delicate resinous note resurfaces, adding a pleasing tenacity and depth. The delicious white petals become suspended in the mélange of woods and leaves, yet their clarity and sweetness remains unobscured.

For a gauzy confection, this is a remarkably tenacious fragrance, lasting on my skin for several hours. Although it is a fairly linear composition, I find Fleur d’Oranger to be a successful orange blossom rendition, without either soapy or musty quality that is often associated with the orange blossom soliflores.

The fragrance is a limited edition, released in a 100ml (3.4oz) bottle. Packaged in the beautifully embossed wooded crate, the bottle will be of the traditional L’Artisan shape, but with the delicate floral design and the fragrance name engraved in the glass.  .

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Recognizing women’s newfound love for sun and summer sports, Jean Patou was one of the first fashion and fragrance houses to introduce suntan oil which was named Chaldée, after an ancient Sumerian city. In 1927, Henri Alméras reinterpreted Chaldée in a fragrance form with notes of orange flower, hyacinth, jasmine; narcissus, lilac; vanilla, opoponax, amber.

Composed in a classical 1920s manner, Chaldée is a blend of white flowers on an ambery base. The initial accords are dark and heavy with the oily richness of hyacinth dominating, however the composition lightens as soon as the sunny mist of orange blossom and jasmine weaves in. Powdery warmth of amber made deliciously sweet by a haze of vanilla constitutes a base upon which delicate white blossoms fall. It has an appealing richness that could translate as powderiness, however smooth greenness of hyacinth provides a beautiful counterpoint, which balances out the dark warmth.

While the EDT is well-done, I would love to try the parfum version, which I would imagine to be even more stunning. Chaldée was available as a part of the Ma Collection, a set of classical Jean Patou fragrances released between 1925-1964. It can still be found fairly easily at various online discount stores.

Update on the 2014 reissue: a warm, sweet white floral that takes on a musty, pungent twist. It’s a pleasant blend overall, but the drydown is a let down.

The most interesting aspect of Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier is its ability to change dramatically on my skin, revealing different facets of the composition. At first, it is a delicate citrus, which warms into an elegant orange blossom. Subsequently, the composition becomes sweetened by a honey note, which is gorgeous, creating a sense of sunlight entering the room on a warm summer morning. The drydown is balanced by a hint of tuberose and musk. Although the musk dominates, it is cashmere soft, gently soapy and sensual, rather than sharp or animalic. I have discovered that it works remarkably well during hot weather, because the notes meld beautifully into the skin, without overwhelming. Fleurs de Citronnier (2004) is another creation by Serge Lutens and Chris Sheldrake.

For those who like to experiment, Fleurs de Citronniers layers beautifully with Vétiver Oriental, creating a composition with subdued musk and unique pairing of earthy vetiver and sweet orange blossom.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

JAR Diamond Waters is Joel Arthur Rosenthal’s rendition of a white blossom, barely touched by cool aldehydic dew. Aldehydes give a crisp opening to the top notes of white rose, interspersed with sweetness of orange blossom and apricot.

A green facet appears after the top notes gently meld into the heart, warmed up by tuberose and a note reminding me of casablanca lily. Honeyed sweetness lends another layer of complexity, which in juxtaposition with clove lends an interesting blend of sensations. Series of miniature carnation explosions create both a vision of fireworks and of light refracted through a prism.

For more information on the JAR Parfums, see my review of Golconda.