Orange Blossom & Neroli: 64 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

F is indeed an appropriate name for this rather indifferent new release from Salvatore Ferragamo. From the sharp nail polish remover stringency of the top notes to the cloying sweetness pervading its base, F adopts every single cliché of a commercial feminine perfume with the resulting impression lacking any suggestion of character or individuality. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Lanvin Rumeur was originally created in 1934 by André Fraysse, a perfumer responsible for a number of Lanvin classics, from the sandalwood infused floral warmth of Arpège to the incense tinged Crescendo. Rumeur was Lanvin to the core—elegant and lighthearted, suffused with both the warm fruitiness and the intriguing mossy darkness. One could just imagine a wearer of this striking beaded grey taffeta gown trailing a dark chypre veil of Rumeur. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Why do I reach for Le Labo Fleur d’Oranger 27 and Neroli 36, even though I have a pile of other interesting Le Labo samples in my lap? Something about the sweet radiance of tiny white flowers, underscored by the alluring complexity of indoles makes this note simply irresistible. While my heart is captured by L’Artisan Fleur d’Oranger, I am always prepared to explore this note further.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Named after the address of the Hermès flagship store in Paris, 24, Faubourg immediately conjures an image of luxury, supple leather and expensive scarves. Although the excess of good taste can be just as unfortunate as its dearth, 24, Faubourg avoids the clichés, toning down the decadent richness of florals with the dryness of patchouli. The sensual ambery radiance that pervades many of Maurice Roucel’s fragrances is evident in 24, Faubourg. Created just a year after the jewel-toned Tocade (1994) and two years before the chilly Gucci Envy (1997), 24, Faubourg is a beautiful compromise between the red lipsticked glamour of the former and the aloof stance of the latter. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Germaine Cellier and Edmond Roudnitska were among the creators who had a chance to compose their fragrances based solely on their own ideas of what the art of fragrance entailed. Roudnitska, who has devoted much effort to make fragrance acceptable as an art form, famously said that he does not allow someone else dictate to him as he composes his fragrances. Cellier rejected accepted cannons and produced a fascinating array of perfumes, from the unforgettable verdancy of crushed emeralds in Vent Vert to the menacing violet concealing the animalic darkness of Jolie Madame. However, in the current climate, it is not realistic to expect perfumers to be able to create in the same free manner without external constraints. What perfumers would want to create if they had the freedom is an interesting thought to ponder. Among the first people who attempted to make this viable was Frédéric Malle, whose idea of giving creative freedom to the renowned perfumers working for him has produced a great and interesting line of fragrances.

Sacré Nobi of S-Perfume also makes a bold step in the avant-garde direction with his line that explores the aesthetic sensibility of a modern artist and his fascination with the sense of smell.

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