Rose: 149 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The desire to capture a place impression in a scent has inspired many fragrances. One of the most trendsetting perfumes, Coty Chypre introduced in 1917 was an attempt to capture the scents of Cyprus (Chypre, in French). Similarly, Parfums de Rosine Rosa Flamenca (2004) was inspired by Marie-Hélène Rogeon’s visit to the rose gardens of Andalucia. My expectations were of hot red rose embellished by spices, however the fragrance is a powdery soft rose in the 18th century boudoir seduction vein–lace over powdered décolletage. Orange blossom paired with soufflé of roses appears in the top notes, however, soon the fragrance warms up, conjuring an impression of powdered hot skin. Although sensuality with the lady-like elegance is a combination that is rarely encountered, Rosa Flamenca manages to convey both, without accenting either characteristic too much.

Notes: orange blossom, bergamot, petitgrain, jasmine, rose, fig leaf; sandalwood, benzoin, musk.

Painting: Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Gabrielle with a Rose. 1911. Musée d’Orsay, Paris, France. abcgallery.com.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if is an oriental still life with roses amid Persian sweetmeats and fruit—ripe peaches dripping honeyed juice, opal colored melons, saffron halwah, semolina pastries stuffed with walnuts and dates, orange blossom sherbet.  It straddles the line between gourmand and sensual.  Within its heart, Ta’if hides a delicate spring-like freshness of white flowers, jasmine and orange blossom, with some freesia sweetness.  This airy accord paired with the medicinal note of saffron is exactly what lifts Ta’if out of a sentimental domain of many rose fragrances. Make no mistake, however, this is a rich blend.  A small amount, and it seduces; too much, and you are guaranteed to be a cause of headache for those around you.

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N’Aimez Que Moi

In 1917, Ernest Daltroff creates a fragrance that captured the promises made by the couples separated by the WWI to remain loyal and to await the return of the loved ones from the front. N’Aimez Que Moi was the name given to  this new perfume by Caron. “Love Only Me!” Alas, it is not a promise I can make. While undoubtedly beautiful, N’Aimez Que Moi is too heavy and powdery even for this fan of makeup-like notes in perfume. The top notes are of creamy rose and violet intertwined with soft lilac. The lush floral bouquet is wrapped in sandalwood and cedar, with an accent of earthy vetiver and iris. Unfortunately, that’s when the fragrance becomes unbearably powdery and opaque, and N’Aimez Que Moi and I part ways.

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Caron Parfum Sacré can be compared to a fine cashmere shawl as it clings to the skin and feels warm and smooth. Created by perfumer Jean-Pierre Béthouart in 1990, it is a spicy oriental, with a big rose in its heart. The first impression is a tingly rush of black pepper. Then, mace (the inner casing of nutmeg), cardamom and lemon grow stronger and richer.

For all its spicy notes, Parfum Sacré is not a dry, pungent fragrance, but caressing and enveloping. The rose softens the middle notes lending them a honeyed sweetness. Rose’s appearance can be compared to a gorgeous stranger entering the room–the clamor stops and every minute whisper is heard distinctly. That’s when I notice orange blossom and iris delicately hinting at their presence. Soon the woody accords undulate slowly lending a resinous aspect to the dry down. The smooth balsamic myrrh, sweet amber and smoky vanilla form the intricate drydown. To call Parfum Sacré sultry is probably an understatement! Still, it is not what I would call a bombshell perfume. Parfum Sacré lends itself to being worn as a comfort scent. On a cold winter day, it is a perfect scented choice–warming and rich, like a glass of mulled wine.

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Caron Or et Noir, “Gold and Black” was created by Michel Morsetti in 1949 in homage to Ernest Daltroff and the tradition of Parfums Caron. Ernest Daltroff was fascinated with roses and incorporated rose absolutes in nearly all compositions he has created for Caron.

A fragrance that served as an inspiration for Parfum Sacré, Or et Noir is a dark rose on a rich base of spices and woods. The opening notes are of honeyed red rose blended with the astringent bite of geranium and bergamot. The sandalwood and black pepper provide a wonderful foil for the rich rose accord. Unlike most rose fragrances that start out bright and crisp and then proceed to warm up on the skin, Or et Noir reveals its sensual facets instantaneously. The darkness of Caron accord is like a breath of cool air that renders the sweet and spicy composition light and airy. I always think of Or et Noir as a rose before sundown, petals closing slowly to hide the unabashedly sultry opening.

One of the Urn Parfums, Or et Noir is available at the Caron boutiques as extrait de parfum. Its notes include Bulgarian rose, centifolia rose and geranium; Anatolian rose, lilac and carnation, oakmoss and woody amber.

On Reformulation 3/31/2011:

The femme fatale roses of Or et Noir are still dark and smoldering, with a wonderful mossy-patchouli undertone. The main difference is that I smell less natural rose and more rose alcohols, which lend Or et Noir an unexpected lemony and zesty quality. Still, it is a good dark rose for those who like this fragrance genre.

Picture: 1949 advertisement for Caron.