Tuberose: 48 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I used to be much more philosophical about celebrity fragrances, thinking that while uninteresting, they are no worse than many others. However, as time goes on, I find myself considering celebrity scents as perfumery junk food, which makes young perfume wearers (to whom these scents are marketed) get used to the idea of a fragrance smelling of cotton candy, sugary fruit and cloying caramel. In fact, as I see more jejune, sugary scents being marketed to women in their 30s and up, I know that it is simply an extension of the same trend in other areas of the market. While I will talk of Rihanna here as my most recent unexciting celebrity fragrance example, the same thing can be said about Beyoncé Heat, Katy Perry Purr and many others. It is just that Reb’l Fleur was launched this month and I happened to get a sample at Macy’s.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The ethereal beauty of Prada Infusion d’Iris contrasted with the bitterness of vetiver and galbanum was such that this fragrance quickly ended up among my top favorites, where it still remains. When I learned that Prada is launching a whole collection, Ephemeral Infusions, based around select raw materials, I immediately started to anticipate the releases. Alas, the first launch, Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger, turned out to be an utter disappointment for me, being reminiscent of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, with all of its good parts sheared out. The most recent addition, Infusion de Tubéreuse, promised to be more interesting: a crisp green floral, suggesting the verdant tuberose buds, the flowers just before they are about to open. Yet, once again I suffer disappointment and I have to admit that Infusion de Tubéreuse does not captivate me at all, as it somehow does not even recall its namesake, even if you imagine it painted in pastel tones.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The lush complexity of tuberose is bewitching: the intense sensuality of its aroma; the surprising layering of green, mineral and creamy notes; the contrast between wet petally and ripe fruit facets. Although perplexing and challenging, this flower offers a rich source of inspiration to a perfumer. Even a brief glance at the L’Artisan Parfumeur tuberose collection reveals that it can be treated in strikingly diverse ways: as a coconut bonbon (Tubéreuse, first launched 1978 and now sadly discontinued,) an innocent ingénue in white (La Chasse aux Papillons), opulent, with an emphasis on jasmine notes (La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême,) or as a heady, creamy and spicy accord (La Haie Fleurie de Hameau). Nuit de Tubereuse, a fragrance by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour and launched this spring, presents yet another tuberose treatment: earthy, musky, with a delicious tropical fruit accent.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Until I started working in the fragrance industry, I automatically assumed that the terms “niche, expensive, Paris-exclusive” guarantee quality, originality and elegance, while the big designer brands and mass market would offer exactly the opposite. Of course, nothing could be further from the truth. Some niche brands do indeed spend a lot of effort on fragrance, as do some large popular brands, while others spend less money on scent than do detergent companies. And believe me, it is quite little for fine fragrance. In this light, it is liberating to forget about labels and simply look for interesting discoveries in venues other than high-end boutiques. My most recent discovery of this sort is Bath & Body Works Velvet Tuberose.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Smelling and dismissing one new launch after the next, I start to worry that I am becoming jaded. It is even more depressing when it comes to reviewing, because unless a strong emotion stirs me, it is difficult to find inspiration for writing during my morning train ride. I would rather catch up on my sleep. Thankfully, there do exist new fragrances that manage to awake me from my literal and figurative slumber. Since I smelled À Travers le Miroir from the new Thierry Mugler Miroir Miroir collection a couple of months ago, it has been on my mind. Therefore, I decided to return to it for a closer look. …

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