These winter days are cold and grey, and I would like to light them up with scents. So I propose a new perfume winter training schedule. Rose, Orange Blossom and Iris will return with additional sessions, and then there will be a brand-new series of seminars devoted to opulence–Jasmine, Tuberose, and Incense. We will talk about white florals and what makes this family so evocative. We will discover what warmth and richness means in perfumery and how to attain such effects with specific notes. We will examine different nuances of our favorite notes and learn how to identify them in our perfumes. Finally, we will do various professional-level exercises to sharpen our sense of smell.

Another favorite topic that I will come in seminars next month will be the iconic fragrances. Working with the formulas, based on my perfumery work, we will study Guerlain Mitsouko and Chanel No 5. We will unravel their facets and learn how these fragrances were put together. You will discover insider facts about these fragrances and will be able to compare their different versions.

The class size is small to ensure that everyone gets attention and a chance to interact. The class is run as a lecture interspersed with guided smelling exercises. My style of teaching is personal and interactive. You will have a chance to ask question throughout the class and there will also be an allotted time at the end for your questions on any fragrance-related topics.

These classes are for students of all levels of interest in perfumery.

We will use readily available materials like spices and citrus fruit for these classes (no need to buy essential oil kits; if you already have essential oils, you can use them too.)

Perfume Fundamentals: Rose, Orange Blossom, Iris

Orange Blossom January 27th, Saturday 1:00pm-2:30pm EST/7:00pm-8:30pm CET To Book $60 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

Rose January 31st, Wednesday 1:00pm-2:30pm EST/7:00pm-8:30pm CET To Book $60 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

Iris February 3rd, Saturday 1:00pm-2:30pm EST/7:00pm-8:30pm CET  To Book $60 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

3 class package: Rose, Orange Blossom, Iris  To Book $168 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

Perfume Fundamentals: Jasmine, Tuberose, Incense

Location: Online, Zoom

Date & Time: 1h 30min

Jasmine February 10th, Saturday 1:00pm-2:30pm EST/7:00pm-8:30pm CET  To Book $60 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here) LAST 2 SEATS REMAINING

Tuberose February 11th, Sunday 1:00pm-2:30pm EST/7:00pm-8:30pm CET   To Book $60 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here) LAST 2 SEATS REMAINING

Incense February 18th, Sunday 1:00pm-2:30pm EST/7:00pm-8:30pm CET  To Book $60 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here) LAST 2 REMAINING

3 class package: Jasmine, Tuberose, Incense  To Book $168 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

6 class Perfume Fundamentals package  To Book $320 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

Deconstructing Classics: Mitsouko and Chanel No 5

Location: Online, Zoom

Date & Time: 1h 30min

Guerlain Mitsouko February 24th, Saturday 1:00pm-2:30pm EST/7:00pm-8:30pm CET  To Book $60 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

Chanel No 5 March 2nd, Saturday 1:00pm-2:30pm EST/7:00pm-8:30pm CET   To Book $60 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

2 class Deconstructing Classics package  To Book $110 per person (if you wish to pay in euro, book here)

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

I’ve always heard while working in the perfume industry that the incidence of brain-degenerative diseases among perfumers is fairly low. Given the amount of effort our brain expends during smelling, it seemed reasonable that this activity helps to stave off the processes that ultimately lead to dementia. However, a number of recent clinical studies reveal that this is not merely anecdotal evidence and that there is a link between improving our sense of smell with training and reducing the risk of Alzheimer’s disease.

In their article Bolstering our sense of smell may reduce the risk of dementia, The Guardian shares these findings. First, it’s important to note that a deterioration in one’s sense of smell is an early sign of Alzheimer’s and other dementia conditions. While the decline happens gradually, when it sets in and becomes obvious, it’s too late to address it. Which is why monitoring your ability to smell should be part of your constant health routine, the way we address our vision and hearing.

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A few years ago, I wrote an article about winter fragrances for the Financial Times. I enjoyed working on that piece and I still like rereading it, but the kind of winter wonderland fantasy that I described in it is no longer part of my reality. The last time I strolled through a snowfall was when I was visiting Bulgaria four years ago. There was a fleeting appearance of snow in late November in Brussels. These days it feels like spring, rather than winter. My daffodils are sprouting. The buds on the trees are full and green. Winter is only a distant memory.

Does it mean that winter scents are anachronistic? In fact, I crave such aromas more than ever. In that spirit, I’m sharing my article and my ideas on recreating winter splendor.

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Happy 2024 to my readers and friends! I wish you many wonderful experiences, health and success. Above all, I wish that 2024 will be a more peaceful year than the previous one.

What was the first thing you smelled this year? One of the exercises I gave to my ISIPCA students to develop them ability to notice and describe aromas is to track the scents they smell over the course of five consecutive days. It was a training method I learned as a perfumery students and I always found it effective. Even these days when I make a point of keeping a scent diary for several days and noting what odors I observe around me, my perception of aromas becomes heightened.

So with the goal of starting the year well, here is my list:
Jasmine tea–white grape, apricot jam, suede, green buds.
White hyacinths–I made an arrangement with white hyacinths and pine branches and I smelled the vivid wet almond and earthy rose scent as soon as I walked into the living this morning.
Panettone–my homemade panettone was scented with orange and lemon peel, vanilla and rum-raisins.
Kefir–my morning, holiday or not, starts with feeding my army of pets–sourdough starters, nukadon, and kefir. Kefir smells wonderfully of green apple and lemon.
Hermès Cuir d’Ange–my perfume today, soft leather and tender musk, with a whisper of violets and faded roses.

I would love to read your lists.

Scent Diary is a place to write your observations about the scents around you. Whether you write down 1 recollection or 10 matters less than simply reminding yourself to smell. You can add as many comments as you wish. You can comment today or over the course of the week; this thread will always be open. Of course, do share what perfume you’re wearing or what particularly good scented products you’ve discovered.

While looking through my articles, I found this article that I wrote a few years ago but that still remains popular and often-read: A to Z Tips for Enjoyable, Affordable and Rewarding Perfume Hobby. If you have any tips to add, I’d love to hear them.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

I’m always reluctant to sum up the year, especially one as complicated as 2023. We all read the news and we know that the world is in a terrible place right now. For our part, we can only do so much to change the course of events, and as we strive to contribute something positive, we also need to take care of ourselves and our families. My goal this year has been to find ways to cope and to maintain my hope and my faith in humanity. And yet whenever I would become despondent, something wonderful would happen–a warm letter from a reader would arrive, a friend would send a small gift, my cousin from Ukraine would call with some good news (for a change), or family would come for a visit.

As busy as I was with my book presentations and my projects related to Ukraine, I tried to find moments to read, explore new scents and learn something new. Joining the ISIPCA faculty this semester also gave me a chance to smell more perfumes and to update my knowledge of the fragrance market. It’s a pleasure to share these discoveries with you. As always, I look forward to hearing about your 2023 favorites, be they scents, books or other beautiful things.

Scents

Thomas de Monaco Eau Coeur

An exquisite combination of osmanthus and magnolia. Elegant, refined, but not to the extent that it smells too cold and stylized. The floral vignette is underscored by musk and woods, and the finish is just as luminous as the start.

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