Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It has been a while since any fragrance from the Armani Privé collection captured my attention. Although many perfumes in the range are elegant and well-crafted, the inflated price makes them much less attractive to me. The only exception so far has been Bois d’Encens, a striking incense and cedarwood composition that intriguingly managed to convey the serene darkness of incense, while suggesting a glamorous aura. La Femme Bleue has been my latest surprise. Although iris has been a heavily used theme among recent niche launches—from Tom Ford Violet Blonde to Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri, La Femme Bleue presents it in an unusual manner. It pairs the cool vegetal austerity of iris with the gourmand sweetness of chocolate and the somber darkness of incense, all the while retaining an uplifting sensation.

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American niche brands Joya and D.S. Durga are about to launch Staghorn Sumac Eau de Parfum, a fragrance created in collaboration between two houses. Created by David Seth Moltz, it is built around bison grass, lily and musk. Moltz describes the scent as part of “a botanical and historical survey of the Great Plains, its people and its wild plants. With this scent, I wanted to shed light on America’s rich botanical history.”

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Guerlain’s Holiday 2011 make-up collection Belle de Nuit takes inspiration from Vol de Nuit, a fragrance created in 1933 in homage to the brave aviators of the 1920s. Given my love of scented body powders, I am particularly anticipating Vol de Nuit Perfumed Shimmer Powder for Face & Body. The press release describes it as the light and luminous powder that “wraps the skin with a veil of iridescent shimmer while being deliciously fragranced by the notes that comprise Vol de Nuit: a green and woody composition, softened by vanilla and iris. The universal pale pink shade is accentuated with blue-green and silvery hues to leave the face, body and hair sparkling.  The bottle [pictured above] reinterprets that of the original Vol de Nuit, which was revolutionary at the time by being the first to combine glass and metal.  The green-blue lacquered glass is adorned with graphics reminiscent of a propeller, conjuring up the image of a plane traveling across the starry depths. $87.

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Do you remember “Sex and the City” episode, in which Carrie considers buying a pair of expensive shoes, knowing fully well that she has no money and that her credit card might be completely maxed out? According to the renowned traveler Ibn Battuta, women in the 13th century Arabia were prone to similar actions. Whatever the price of beauty might be, some were willing to pay it!

“The Meccans are very elegant and clean in their dress, and most of them wear white garments, which you always see fresh and snowy. They use a great deal of perfume and kohl… The Meccan women are extraordinarily beautiful and very pious and modest. They too make great use of perfumes to such a degree that they will spend the night hungry in order to buy perfumes with the price of their food… When one of these women goes away the odour of the perfume clings to the place after she has gone” (Gibb 1929, 76.)

Photography of henna by VeraKL

How do your friends and family relate to your love of fragrance? Are they indulgent, understanding, puzzled, etc.?

Mention fragrance, and the responses range from “what is your favorite” to “I am allergic to all perfumes.” I have noticed how willing people are to talk about scents, especially when the concept of fragrance extends beyond a bottle of perfume. Therefore, I love discussing scents with others: what they wear, what they like, what they remember from their childhood, etc. My family went from being puzzled to being understanding and proud of my work. They are my main supporters. I was touched recently when I found out that my dad used to follow my blog and share links with his friends (he never told me!) The only thing my husband objects to is the presence of perfume samples on the floor, because he always trips over them.