Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There is something exhilarating and uplifting about the green notes. A whiff of crushed leaves, mowed grass or of minced herbs—and suddenly the breath of spring itself envelops you, making you feel giddy. Yet, strong verdant accords in fragrances are notoriously difficult to weave in such a way that the perfume maintains its effervescent quality without being overly sharp and aggressive. Therefore, most fragrances interpret the idea of verdancy in a rather tame manner, using the green accords as mere accents. Le Temps d’une Fête by Parfums de Nicolaï comes as a pleasant surprise—a sophisticated fragrance that presents a vibrant green theme, yet retaining a plush, caressing quality on the skin. It has the bold character of Balmain Vent Vert, while it wears as elegantly as Guerlain Chamade.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I love the playfulness of Vanille Insensée, which cannot decide whether it wants to be a vanilla or an amber, and while oscillating between luscious sweetness and dark richness, it manages to beguile with its complex, nuanced character. The contrasted nature of this fragrance created by perfumer Ralf Schwieger for Atelier Cologne not only makes it exciting to wear, but also gives it a beautiful signature.

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Trend Watch : Dark Side of Gourmand / Orient Express / Classical Flowers

Trend Watch : Orange Blossom / Aromatic Fougère / Modern Cologne

In general, sheer roses and floral motifs frequently serve as the main themes for spring launches so I decided to compile a selection of fragrances to highlight the rose tinted ideas that we are about to see coming in April-May. I will add a mini-review and a star rating to the fragrances I have already sampled.

In the same vein, do you have any favorite roses for spring?

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The other day I was cleaning up my office, when I came across a vial of Victoire Gobin-Daudé Biche Dans L’Absinthe, a green woody fragrance that beautifully conveys the bitter absinthe impression. The vial was almost empty, but a single whiff brought me back to the cold summer I spent in Warsaw, dividing my time between the Statistical Library and the pastry shops in the vicinity (Polish cakes and desserts have few rivals in my affections.) A sillage of Biche Dans L’Absinthe followed me around the city, and to this day, I cannot think of Warsaw without recalling this marvelous scent. Yet, it has been discontinued years ago, and an empty vial is all I have today. Out of many fragrances that were taken off the market, Gobin-Daudé collection is the one I miss the most. They were original and memorable.

I also miss the original version of Christian Dior Dioressence (the current version is a completely different fragrance,) Lancôme AromaCalm (a soft blend of iris and incense,) Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps (the reformulated version is not even worth smelling,) and Shiseido Nombre Noir. Once Yves Saint Laurent Nu disappears from the existing stocks, I know that I will be in deep mourning for its departure.

What discontinued fragrances do you miss the most? What vanished perfumes do you still mourn?

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

With Un Jardin sur le Toit, Hermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena recreates not just the scent of wet soil, green leaves and flower buds, but the joyful atmosphere of a garden party. There is something joyful and vivacious about this newest fragrance from Hermès which is inspired by roof top gardens. While the composition plays with some interesting green apple and mossy-woody ideas, it essentially reads as a crisp, sheer rose on the skin.

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