Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Incense Pure was my introduction to Sonoma Scent Studio’s collection. The first time I wore it, I was reminded of the initial role of perfume as a healing potion—one drop of Incense Pure on my wrist, and I felt uplifted and refreshed. Since then I have tried most of the Sonoma Scent Studio’s fragrances, and my initial favorable  impression of the line remains unchanged. With every fragrance, regardless of whether it made my list of favorites or not, I have been delighted to discover not just a memorable scent, but also the very distinctive fingerprint of its creator. This is what touched me about the fragrances; they make a coherent, yet diverse collection and provide a glimpse into someone’s universe.

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The dry resinous fragrance of incense has a very calming, soothing effect, which has been known since antiquity. In fact, both Eastern and Western religions share the use of frankincense in their ceremonies as it is believed to aid prayer and meditation. When fashion designer John Galliano approached perfumer Olivia Giacobetti (author of Hermès Hiris, L’Artisan Premier Figuier, Diptyque Philosykos) to create a home fragrance reminiscent of the Russian Orthodox church, it was the note of frankincense that Giacobetti chose to explore. The result is Essence of John Galliano, available as both a candle and room spray–a beguiling melange of smoky leather and dark woods, wrapped in a dusky glow of incense.

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Strong emotions lead to lasting love, therefore a polarizing fragrance is much more likely to provoke a strong emotion and may perhaps forge a stronger bond than a perfume that is simply pleasant. Sometimes, however, some fragrances simply remain challenging and as much as you try to like them, they do not return the favor.

Among my favorite challenging fragrances is Robert Piguet Bandit.  I initially found its combination of green notes, leather and moss is roughewn and quite brutal, and in fact, I still feel the same way about it. Yet, Bandit has such a bold, dramatic and confident aura that inspite of finding it difficult, I was tempted to put it on again and again. It is now among my top 25 all-time favorites.  On the other hand, there is no such successful courtship between Serge Lutens Miel de Bois and me. Its overdose of honey notes that verges on urinous takes me to a New York backstreet alley on a hot summer day–not a pleasant olfactory experience.

What fragrances do you find challenging and with which one did you form a lasting bond? Conversely, which do you find unwearable?

Image: Robert Piguet Bandit ad.

Chloé Rosebud is only one of several rose embellished perfumes that launch this spring. Another one is Prada Infusion de Rose. Created by perfumer Daniela Andrier, who is also responsible for Infusion d’Iris, Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger, Infusion de Tubéreuse and Infusion de Vétiver, the composition is reported to include notes of Turkish and Bulgarian rose, mandarin, peppermint, yerbamaté, and beeswax. Priced at $105, it is going to be available from Bergdorf Goodman this spring. via Vogue.com.

Chloé is releasing a new fragrance called Chloé Rosebud, a limited edition variation on the original Chloe Eau de Parfum. In contrast to the original, Chloé Rosebud is a fresher floral, with the stronger rose accents. It was created by Robertet perfumers Amandine Marie and Michel Almairac.
Notes: pink peony, freesia, lychee, magnolia, lily of the valley, rose, cedarwood, amber, and honey.

“The Chloé vision is not about one singular woman, but rather about the rich and varied personalities of all Chloé women. This fresh, smooth, and floral fragrance evokes a sublime powdery-rose scent. The effect is chic, comfortable, and entirely addictive.”

1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray, $85. Available from Sephora.