Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I always think of Paco Rabanne as a rather avant-garde perfume house, with audacious fragrances like Calandre and Black XS making up its portfolio. In fact, it seemed surprising that it did not offer any commercial fruity-florals (Ultraviolet notwithstanding, since it is closer to the oriental family.) Well, Lady Million fits that gap for sure—it is a quintessentially commercial composition that hits all of the marks: a big fruity-berry note, a petally, white floral accord and a gourmand musky-woody base.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The allure of the Annick Goutal house lies in the sheer diversity of genres within its portfolio, from bold Sables to delicate Duel, from vivacious Grand Amour to demure Le Chèvrefeuille, from femme fatale Passion to puerile Petite Cherie… Heure Exquise is one of the most classical compositions from the house, a soft floral orchestration dominated by iris.

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Égoïste is based on the classical orchestration of woody and oriental accords. It is said to be derived from a limited edition called Bois Noir, which was introduced by Chanel briefly in 1987. Although the fragrance is inspired by a classical theme, Polge rendered it in a novel manner. The bright herbal accord of thyme, rosemary, lavender and sage is set against sweet plums and candied apricots, which in turn are supported by a dramatic woody backdrop. A prominent vetiver note lends a certain bitter chocolate effect, which heightens the baroque richness of the composition. The contrast among these accords produces a multilayered effect, which lasts from the top to the drydown.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Linari is a relatively new niche fragrance house founded by a German industrial engineer Rainer Diersche. It promises luxury, it is inspired by Tuscany–who isn’t inspired by it, one begs the question!–and it works with some of the best noses. My first encounter with Linari portfolio, which already includes Notte Bianca, Angelo Di Fiume, Vista Sul Mare and Eleganza Luminosa, has been Acqua Santa. Created by Maurice Roucel, it is described as “clean and innocent like crystal-clear holy water.”

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

One of the most gorgeous raw materials I have come across is magnolia absolute by Laboratoire Monique Rémy. It is a beautifully contrasted note: its herbal top reminiscent of lavender and spicy green leaves gives way to a surprisingly luscious core of jasmine and apricot. Magnolia absolute is such a striking, dramatic note that it works well as part of a rich oriental blend a la Guerlain L’Instant, as well as in light florals and even colognes like Eau d’Italie Magnolia Romana. While I still have not found a well-crafted magnolia soliflore, there are a few fragrances that use it to a memorable effect. One such example is Champaca Absolute from Tom Ford Private Blend collection.

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