Autumn, automne, خريفي, 秋, осень… By any name this season retains for me its associations with the languid decay, with the bittersweet end of beauty, with the melancholy. I was born in the fall, and that is why perhaps the autumn and its scents appeal to me. The dampness of fallen leaves, the rooty fragrance of wet earth, the incense of distant bonfires… Let the scents below serve as a journey into the autumn with me.

Amouage is a fascinating fragrance house given its history steeped in the rich perfume traditions of Oman, the site of the ancient Frankincense Road. Created as a means to preserve the country’s perfume-making traditions, Amouage offers a range which allows a glimpse both into the splendors of grand French perfumery as well as the smouldering beauty of the Eastern scents. If Amouage Gold and Jubilation 25 for Women fit well into the former category, Homage occupies the latter. I love the traditional combination of rose, oud, sandalwood and frankincense with the modern clarity and sparkle. An introspective and serene scent.

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Founded in Paris in 1976, Cinquième Sens (which means Fifth Sense in French) is offering an opportunity to learn about fragrance through series of workshops and training programs designed for the professional and the fragrance fan alike. The sessions range from 1 day to a year and can be tailored to reflect your specific needs. The best part is that unlike most programs of this nature, Cinquième Sens training sessions will be available in New York, from the Cinquième Sens Madison office. The topics that the sessions cover range from Olfactory Perfection (study of the main raw materials in each family,) A Century of Women’s/Men’s Fragrances, Study of the Top 20 launches, Formulation Workshop, among many others.

Please contact Laetitia Longuefosse, Director USA of Cinquième Sens at laetitia dot longuefosse at novalys dot com, + 1 646 251 5221 for more information, prices and availability.

I have always mourned the departure of Donna Karan Chaos. Even though many other fragrances since its original launch in 1996 attempted to capture the delicious darkness of incense, woods and spices, nothing could quite rival Chaos, where every woody, incense and spicy facet was magnified and arranged in a perfect harmony. However, it seems that the reps at the fragrance house have seen the light, and Chaos is soon to return to the stores, along with Donna Karan Signature, Fuel for Men, Black Cashmere and the Essence Collection. Meanwhile, you can visit the Bergdorf Goodman counter to preview these fragrances between August 13th and August 16th. (via press release)

Every year I wait for the summer impatiently, even if I know that once the mercury levels start rising, I shall be miserable and cranky. Yet, the idea of a summer escape, of azure waves, of golden sand sticking to the skin, of ripe peaches, of jasmine scented nights is too irresistible, too seductive. My summer of 2008 is none of these things (save for jasmine and peaches.) It is filled with work projects, and whatever escape I manage lies in books and perfume. A spray of something orange blossom scented, and I am transported to Riviera. A hint of dark woods and cardamom, and I am having a cup of coffee someplace in the Omani oasis. The perfumes below are just that—tickets for my escapist fantasies.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In sartorial terms, an effervescent citrus cologne is as versatile and timeless as a tailored suit or a little black dress. It is immediately appealing and effortlessly chic, while still having a striking presence. Yet, eventually all little black dresses start to look similar, and all colognes exhibit that familiar fresh burst followed by floral sweetness or woody dryness. As one knows all too well, familiarity breeds contempt. In this light, I have put the newest cologne offering, Christian Dior Escale à Portofino, to the test.

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