Hermessence range is soon to be joined by Brin de Réglisse. It is a 7th fragrance in the line, which already includes Rose Ikebana, Poivre Samarcande, Ambre Narguilé, Osmanthe Yunnan, and Paprika Brasil. While the name means “a blade of licorice” (as in “a blade of grass”, a small quantity), the composition was inspired by lavender. In the interview the perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena gave to L’Express, he described how he wanted his lavender to be intense and dry, like the lavender one smells in the South of France, when the strong cold wind (mistral) blows through the area in June. His idea was to streamline lavender and render it as a “clean line.” As he concludes, “Nothing is more complex than simplicity.” Thanks to Paola for the link.

Photo from Moosey’s Country Garden, a beautiful website about gardening.

Neiman Marcus is now featuring the limited edition fragrance by Hermès, Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée. Originally created in 2003 by Jean-Claude Ellena, Calèche Fleurs de Méditerranée is inspired by the Mediterranean gardens and their scents–rose, jasmine, mimosa. The fragrance, airy and luminous, is based on the notes of Moroccan mimosa, Turkish rosa damascena, Egyptian jasmine, with the additional notes of beeswax and heliotrope. It is very much in the elegant and streamlined Ellena style. Only 2500 bottles of Soie de Parfum will be available exclusively at Neiman Marcus.

Moreover, Parfum-Echecs reports that Un Brin de Réglisse, a composition based on the notes of licorice, will join the Hermessence range, which already includes Rose Ikebana, Poivre Samarcande, Ambre Narguilé, Osmanthe Yunnan, and Paprika Brasil.

Photo from Osmoz.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Kate Moss is a personality that stands out in the sleek and gorgeous model milieu. She was the embodiment of the 1990s and its minimalism. She was the face of Calvin Klein. She took on Chanel as the Coco Mademoiselle cover girl. She had her share of controversies and successes. Her style is the most imitated of all models (and it can now be purchased at Barneys under her new clothing label). For those aspiring to more, there is now a fragrance by Moss, simply called Kate.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I very much anticipated the launch of No.5 Eau Première. Granted, not everything from Chanel has enchanted me. I could live without Chance and the numerous masculine Allure flankers. Les Exclusifs could have possessed more tenacity. Yet, all of this notwithstanding, I am hard-pressed to point out another fragrance house (with the important and notable exception of Estée Lauder in the US) that pays so much attention to the actual contents of the fragrance flacons. The fruity jasmine, the sumptuous rose and the seductively creamy musk of No.5 Eau Première have the kind of richness and quality that seems to be more and more difficult to find elsewhere.

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“The story of Chanel No 5 begins in Moscow in 1912 with perfumer Ernest Beaux’s studies of the aldehyde used in Houbigant’s Quelques Fleurs. It continues in La Bocca and Cannes, France, and then is almost derailed by competition from an unlikely source,” begins the article From Rallet No1 to Chanel No5 versus Mademoiselle Chanel No1 by Philip Kraft, Christine Ledard and Philip Goutell.

Published in October issue of Perfumer & Flavorist, it presents a fascinating account of the birth of Chanel No5. One can learn why Beaux was interested in aldehydes and how Coco Chanel decided to launch her own line of fragrances (breaking the agreement with Pierre Wertheimer of Parfums Chanel) during the WWII. Moreover, the piece offers the reconstituted formulas for Rallet No1 parfum and eau de toilette as well as mysterious Mademoiselle Chanel No1. Available for purchase from the Perfumer & Flavorist website.

I have to mention my own small involvement in this piece, which was consisted of providing some historical materials as well as a sample of Rallet No1 from my personal bottle. I have long treasured this gem, and I was glad to finally break open the seal for the purposes of analysis. It is certainly great to see it on the P&F pages.