Chypre Rouge is the newest release by Serge Lutens, described as pecan on caramelized base of oakmoss. It is going to be available starting mid July from Salons Shiseido and Senteurs d’Ailleurs.

Another new release by Serge Lutens, this time made exclusive to the Palais Royal Salons Shiseido line, is Mandarine Mandarin. Featuring a mandarine note that is both candied and burnt, cashmeran, clove, honey, beeswax and ambergris, the composition promises to continue the oriental tradition of Serge Lutens fragrances. Mandarine Mandarin will be available starting September.

The new Spanish line, Campos de Ibiza, is now available at Takashimaya in New York. Colonia Agua de Rosas explores the beauty of the Mediterranean flowers with its notes of green apple, tangerine, orange, bergamot, freesia, magniolia, ylang ylang, carnation, violet, sandalwood, moss and musk. Colonia Cedro, my favourite of the three, weaves basil, bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, juniper, cinnamon, sandalwood and white musk. Colonia Mandarina is a tribute to the island’s citrus fruit. Notes include tangerine, bergamot, lemon, verbena, orange, galbanum, petitgrain, artemisia, lavender, basil, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, geranium, jasmine, amber, moss and cedar. The fragrances can also be purchased from first-in-fragrance.

Update: Takashimaya in New York has been closed.

The Guerlain’s newest release Insolence, a berry and iris composition, can already be previewed at Bergdorf Goodman in New York. You can call Jason at the Guerlain boutique to reserve it or to request a fragrance strip, (212) 872-2734.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Among Emporio Armani fragrances, White She (2001) stands out not only for its innovative composition, but also for its perfect synergy with the elegant, tailored look of Giorgio Armani couture and prêt-a-porter lines. A fashion house famous for its immaculate fit and expensive fabric made a great choice in selecting the fragrance that eventually became Emporio Armani White She (or White Elle). I prefer White She to all other Emporio Armani fragrances, including its masculine counterpart. In fact, although labeled She, the composition has an almost androgynous feel. The perfume conjures cool silks and hot ironed linens with its transparent freshness, which slips off slowly revealing a silvery woody accord.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Ormonde Jayne Champaca smells like magnolia petals, green tea and basmati rice, a surprising and compelling composition. Although Ormonde Jayne feminines are named after the flowers that inspired them, they are far from being simple soliflores. Sampaquita only delicately weaves jasmine into its fruity-musky body. Ta’if’s gourmand sweetness is only framed by the lush rose petals. Osmanthus hints at its apricot sweetness amidst the sparkle of citrus. Likewise, magnolia champaca is cleverly introduced into the eponymous composition. Set against the milky backdrop of rice, it becomes an exquisite stillife rather than a study of one flower. …

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