Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The most compelling quality of Bois d’Iris, a fragrance created by the perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena for The Different Company is its ability to present the silvery and earthy iris root as layers of petals, transparent as if shot through with intense light and soft as if made from Varanasi silk. In contrast to the earthy and rooty irises, Bois d’Iris is marked by such as a lovely floral softness sustained over the dry woody base that I can forgive its lack of tenacity and make a room for it in my crowded collection of iris fragrances (and perfumes by Jean-Claude Ellena, for that matter.)

If creating a rose fragrance is a task of rendering a blossom out of oil extracted from its petals (or from various synthetic materials that range from photorealism to abstraction in terms of their link to the actual flower), constructing iris does not lead the perfumer to think of the sweet, honeyed scent of its flowers. Instead, it entails blending notes that conjure a scent of its roots, the intriguing blend of violets, earth, wood and metallic dust. The sheer complexity of the orris root is the reason for perfumers’ fascination with it, starting with the iconic Jacques Fath Iris Gris (1947). ….

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The new Jean Patou fragrance, Sira des Indes, is already available for sale in France. The notes of this fragrance inspired by India include the native Indian flower magnolia champaca, banana accord, bergamot, pear, red berries, cardamom, musk, amber, vanilla and sandalwood. The name refers to the South Indian dessert of cream of wheat, butter and sugar, which is usually served with banana slices on the side. It is also a tribute to Sita, the loyal queen from the epic Ramayana and the Sari.

The fragrance is delicately fruity, with milky notes, sandalwood and champaca balancing out the subtle gourmand sweetness. There is also a welcome green touch. The parfum of Sira des Indes is also available, and as Neela mentions, it is very gorgeous and less green. “It is a perfect spring perfume even for a non-fruity lover.” Thank you Neela for the news! Sira des Indes should be available in the States after March of 2006.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Czech & Speake Dark Rose is a fragrance that is certain to surprise. Exploring rose fragrances over the past couple of weeks led me to revisit a number of rose focused compositions, wondering why the roses that fascinated me the most were nocturnal and masculine. Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan, Une Rose by Frederic Malle, Rose d’Homme by Parfums de Rosine, Rose de Nuit by Serge Lutens and, to a lesser degree, Rose Poivree by The Different Company, present beautiful treatments of rose that do not link flowers with their feminine associations. Layering roses with vanilla and sweet notes seems like a natural pairing, and it has been done to the extent that it is refreshing to discover a fragrance that takes the flower and accents its woody, spicy and raw aspects. Experiencing the smoke and incense anointed layers of Dark Rose makes one understand why in the Middle Eastern tradition roses are endowed with masculine traits.

Dark Rose makes one discover the rarely exploited aspect of rose, its thorns, thus separating Dark Rose from the sweet and pretty rose compositions. Admittedly, Dark Rose is not the best rose of the nocturnal genre, but its story still remains novel and its execution intriguing. In this light, my gravitation to Dark Rose after weeks of wearing other rose fragrance is understandable. Moreover, doesn’t one wish to reveal one’s own claws from time to time? …

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Read an interesting interview with Serge Lutens in Osmoz. The photo depicts the new fragrance by Serge Lutens, Gris Clair…, a compositon of lavender, iris, tonka bean, amber and incense. Please see my review here.

Also, in the same issue, there is an article on the profession of a perfumer. “But each perfumer also possesses his or her own ‘secret recipes’. At Guerlain, practically every single fragrance has the celebrated “guerlinade” (an accord composed essentially of powdery, vanilla and tonka bean notes) running through it like a filigree. In the same way, top perfumers like Alberto Morillas, Jean Claude Ellena, Christine Nagel and Annick Menardo have their own signatures, their own unique creative styles, their own sensitivity to the ingredients, their own ways of choosing and blending them. A delicate, personal, creative experience rich with emotion and personal history… ” Read the rest of the article.

Read an interesting interview with Catherine Deneuve in Sunday Times. She describes her perfume favorites, such as Rose Menthée by Fresh, anything by Jo Malone and Frédéric Malle.

Advertisement: Chanel No.5 with Deneuve from psine.net. Apologies, but a tight traveling schedule prevents me from publishing a review today. I will have one on Tuesday. Have a wonderful start of the week!