Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If there is a theme in feminine perfumery that seems to be evolving over the past decade, it must be pink and sheer. Fitting with the light and transparent style of Fresh Index fragrances, Pink Jasmine cannot be described in any other way but pink, delicate and pretty. Whether these are positive or negative attributes would depend on personal preference; although, those who like sweet florals rendered transparent like chiffon and durable like nylon will find Pink Jasmine a good choice for the spring.

From its glittering top of oranges covered with flower petals to the transparent woody base, Pink Jasmine retains its airy floral sweetness. The splash of orange juice in the top notes immediately gives an appealing citrusy freshness which delicately persists in the floral heart. The fruity notes become more apparent as the fragrance dries down, with the sweetness growing more substantial, although never becoming cloying. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Melodrama was created by the perfumer Christopher Sheldrake (the nose behind Serge Lutens fragrances) for Space.NK, a perfumery in Covent Garden, London. It is a fragrance that pays homage to the 1920s, although its composition is closer to the aldehydic floral chypre like Millot Crêpe de Chine (1925), Weil Zibeline (1928) and Hermès Calèche (1961), than to the aldehydic floral like Chanel No.5 (1921). It marries the sparkling floral aldehydic canvas with the classical chypre accord, the mossy woodiness of which beautifully complements the sweet floral notes.

Beginning true to its name, Melodrama explodes with a firework of aldehydes that settle into an opaque veil over the top accord. A metallic green notes cuts through the aldehydic whiteness, allowing the floral notes to appear one by one. The sweetness of jasmine rises up to enfold the velvety note of bergamot, its sparkle dimmed in the white floral heart. …

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Contrary to the rumors, Czech & Speake Dark Rose is not discontinued. The company responds that “we have not taken this decision at all. As far as we are concerned, production will resume as soon as possible. Many thanks for your interest in our products.” Czech & Speake fragrances can be ordered directly from Czech & Speake website. Or contact Habiba (Bibi) Diarra at Tel: +44 208 983 7400/Fax: +44 208 981 7232. Thank you Micki for the information!

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens Chergui stings with hot spices that cover the skin like fine grains of sand, sharp, slightly abrasive and warm. Romantically named after the blood-boiling Moroccan wind that blows in off the desert during the summer, Chergui has the spicy intensity, yet its hot breath is tamed by the sweet and floral elements. Created in 2001 by Christopher Sheldrake, it is an Arabian Nights vignette in a liquid form.

The candied quality melts in the smoke whispers that fill the arrangement, like incense smoke seeping through the carved screens. The floral accord folded into the smoky layers of Chergui lightens density and sweetness, lending a voluptuous silky quality. The fine cured Virginia tobacco notes overlaid on the smoky leathery base give the composition a slightly masculine character, counterbalancing the sweet notes….

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Chanel has appointed Christopher Sheldrake as their new director of research and development for fragrances, reporting to perfumer Jacques Polge. Sheldrake was previously employed by Quest International and he is the nose for a majority of fragrances from Serge Lutens line. It is unclear based on the information available whether he will be exclusively retained by Chanel, or whether he will continue working for Serge Lutens as well. From Cosmeticnews.