Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There are times when one has cravings for a fragrance that merely teases with its mouthwatering associations, almost taking one to the patisserie, but not quite. Lancôme Hypnôse is such a composition, a pleasant sorbet of a fragrance that at first melts lusciously enveloping one in tropical fruit tartness and creamy vanilla, and then fades into the pleasant aftertaste of musky woods.

The frangipani drizzled with peach nectar opening of Hypnôse is layered with green jasmine, the lacy opulence of which serves as a nice counterpoint to the fruit compote in which the composition is liable to drown. The tropical fruitiness is however not overly sweet, and while the accord is not an impressionistic melody, it is not a glassy photorealistic rendition either, remaining between a flower and a fruit mélange. Hypnôse is reminiscent of Sicilian confections of sugar, candied pumpkin and almonds, scented with jasmine water. Just like these candies leave a taste of summer flowers on the lips, Hypnôse retains a touch of floral sweetness as it unfolds into one vanilla foiled layer after another. …

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Cartier unveils its newest fragrance, Délices de Cartier, the floral scent created by Christine Nagel, which includes “top notes of cherry with jasmine in the heart and amber and vanilla at the base.” The fragrance is inspired by the Cartier jewellery collection. The launch is first supposed to take place in March, with distribution in 250 Cartier boutiques worldwide, and will continue in April, with distribution in selected retailers. From cosmeticnews.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Chypre category with its strong accord based on the interplay of hesperidic, floral, woody and mossy facets has gathered popularity since 1917, when Coty Chypre intriguingly explored the extremes of olfactory spectrum to create a memorable and unusual fragrance weaving bergamot, oak moss, labdanum, and patchouli . Subsequently, the affinity of the chypre accord with the voluptuous fruity and floral notes has been discovered, resulting in the orchestrations that fused various flowers, peach (Guerlain Mitsouko, Rochas Femme), plum (Guerlain Parure, Shiseido Féminité Du Bois), as well as exotic fruit (Jean Patou Colony) with the classical chypre accords. The marriage of chypre with other notes is likewise fascinating, with fragrances like Grès Cabochard and Robert Piguet Bandit being examples of the animalic leather chypres, and Dior Diorella, Clinique Aromatics Elixir and Couturier Coriandre exhibiting the beautiful interplay of chypre accords with modern synthetics such as hedione.

While the popularity of the classical chypre has waned, the chypre category is hardly ignored. Ralph Lauren Pure Turquoise, Lulu Guiness Cast a Spell, Dior Miss Dior Cherie, Chanel Chance, Coco Mademoiselle EDT are the examples of the fragrances released in the past couple of years and classified as posssessing chypre accords. The very definition of the chypre seems to be changing, with the emphasis made on the transparent and fruity notes combined with the chypre facets, and many fragrances classified as chypre these days do not even seem to be related to the classical chypre accords. Narciso Rodriguez for Her and Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely are two examples of the classification that would consider them as floral oriental compositions with chypre accords and they are often compared. The main similarity between them is in their luxurious musk accords touched with the ambery warmth that makes these compositions melt beautifully on the skin, and while the fragrances are by no means identical, they create a similar effect of warm, sensual softness.  Now, whether chypre classification might applicable here is a whole another story. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

“The icicles, which seemed to have been deliberately hung in different lengths from all the eaves, were incredibly beautiful and looked like waterfalls of crystal,” writes Sei Shonagon in The Pillow Book, a beguiling example of the classical Japanese prose from the 10th century. The silvery glitter of ice, the sparkling expanse of whiteness with an occasional glimpse of bare black branches, the metallic taste of snow on the lips–winter instills serenity and melancholy in the scenes that ordinarily would strike one as quotidian. The chill of winter in fragrances is usually expressed through the usage of the icy notes of iris, the white musk accords marked by the radiant metallic freshness as well the touches of ozonic elements to create the crisp effect of cold air.

Jean-Claude Ellena’s Frédéric Malle L’Eau d’Hiver (2003) and Paul & Joe Blanc (2003) are often compared, however while there are similarities, the fragrances are sufficiently different that a predilection for one would not necessarily mean liking for another. Yet, they both share the white powdery accord woven into the arrangement. Jean-Claude Ellena cites Après l’Ondée as his inspiration for L’Eau d’Hiver, which took the classical structure of the Guerlain classic, refined it to the essential features and added a scintillating hesperidic top. …

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New rose fragrance is debuting from Les Parfums de Rosine line. It is called Rose d’Amour. It was created by Camille Latron, the nose behind Rosa Flamenca. Notes include ginger, galbanum, bergamot, aldehyde, rosebud, essences of roses, iris, jasmine, moss, musk, pepper, vetiver.