Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

For a lover of oriental compositions, Paul & Joe Bleu created by Pierre Bourdon, with its ambery notes folded into the velvety creaminess of woods and vanilla, would be a nice discovery. Fairly classical composition at first glance, it weaves the sweet incense and tobacco nuances of oud into its rich veil, creating an interesting orchestration that calls to mind nocturnal images. At the same time, experiencing Bleu makes one understand why oriental compositions are often compared to cashmere, for its gently powdery drydown embraces the skin in the warm and soft fashion.

The initial impression suggests a sparkling spicy composition with the complementarities of cool spices and bergamot, the crisp tartness of which barely hints at the sensuality of patchouli and the powdery sweetness of coumarin underscoring the base. The crystalline quality of the top notes melts away under the intensifying effervescence of spices. …

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Serge Lutens talks about the influence of geisha traditions in his work as a make-up artist in the Sunday Times Online article, The Look of Geisha (scroll down to section titled “The Geisha Influence”).

Photo: Maiko, apprentice geisha from www.livingwell-mag.net.

Osmoz explores the fragrance trends that revolve around India, offering selections of fragrances and explanations of raw materials sourced from India. Read about the scents of India on Ozmos website. Thanks to N. for a link!

Photo: Bollywood actress Aishwarya Rai.

In the fall, the denizens of New York City and New Jersey noticed a strange smell reminiscent of maple syrup. A number of theories as to its origins have resurfaced, from terrorist attacks to fragrance and flavor industry emissions. New Jersey seems to be the prime suspect of the smell. New York Times article continue to probe the origins of smell, including interviews with companies such as International Flavor & Fragrances, which has two plants in New Jersey, in Hazlet (Monmouth County) and Dayton (Middlesex County). Read it here.

I apologize for the lack of promised article on Paul & Joe Bleu today, however since it is the last day of my vacation, there are certain things I must finish before classes start again. Hence, I am taking a day off from Bois de Jasmin to enjoy the last real weekend before the end of May. Have a wonderful day, everyone! Please come back Monday for my article on Bleu, an oriental ambery fragrance by Bourdon.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Lyn Harris founded her perfume line Miller Harris in 2000 and included fragrances ranging from the crisp Citron Citron to the delicately pretty Fleur du Matin. Nouvelle Line is a separate range of fragrances, having limited distribution, higher prices and exotic descriptions. The names alone are rather enticing: Cuir d’Oranger, Piment des Baies, Terre d’Iris…

En Sens de Bois is the newest fragrance from Miller Harris, and it was inspired by the scents of Japanese temples. The mere allusion to temple incense was enough to capture my attention, as my imagination immediately began to paint images of smokeless Japanese incense, the silky embrace of cedarwood and the resinous clarity of pine wood. …

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