Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Poignantly elegant and refined, Lancome Climat is a beautiful arrangement in which green notes are set against the lustrous glow of aldehydes and then blended into the waterfall of flowers. It touches with its ability to remain like a piece of gossamer fabric floating in the wind, while possessing a decadently sensual richness afforded by the animalic notes on which Climat rests its diaphanous form.

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The newest addition to Armani Privé Amethyst, according to the American, or Cuir Améthyste, according to the French press releases is described by the Armani catalogue as “velvety as the skin of a golden fruit, warm as vanilla pulp, ripe and sensuous as a sunny wood.” The bottle will be capped by a hazy violet gemstone cap, like other Privé fragrances. The scent is slated to be a spring release for Armani and will appear in stores around March-April of 2006.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Germaine Cellier and Edmond Roudnitska were among the creators who had a chance to compose their fragrances based solely on their own ideas of what the art of fragrance entailed. Roudnitska, who has devoted much effort to make fragrance acceptable as an art form, famously said that he does not allow someone else dictate to him as he composes his fragrances. Cellier rejected accepted cannons and produced a fascinating array of perfumes, from the unforgettable verdancy of crushed emeralds in Vent Vert to the menacing violet concealing the animalic darkness of Jolie Madame. However, in the current climate, it is not realistic to expect perfumers to be able to create in the same free manner without external constraints. What perfumers would want to create if they had the freedom is an interesting thought to ponder. Among the first people who attempted to make this viable was Frédéric Malle, whose idea of giving creative freedom to the renowned perfumers working for him has produced a great and interesting line of fragrances.

Sacré Nobi of S-Perfume also makes a bold step in the avant-garde direction with his line that explores the aesthetic sensibility of a modern artist and his fascination with the sense of smell.

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Pierre Bourdon has created a fragrance for Clarins called Ferre. The composition includes notes of freesia, ylang ylang and vanilla.

Maurice Roucel’s newest fragrance is Nautica Voyage. The composition contains notes of green leaf, apple, mimosa, water lotus, cedar wood, musk, moss and woody amber.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Songes by Annick Goutal… Dreams is what every new year begins with… Dreams that one has a chance to travel to a new place, to discover new things, to meet new people and to change one’s own shortcomings. The very word—dreams, songes, sogni, mechty, or whatever other language one uses—has a character of something ethereal and yet intoxicating, capturing a moment of complete oblivion. Annick Goutal Songes is appropriately named, because losing oneself in its warm cloud of white jasmine delicately supported by the sweet woods is not unlike being in a dream-like state, when the whole world is submerged in the haze of intense contemplation.

Some of Annick Goutal fragrances are all about subtlety and perhaps too much so, from the transparent green freshness of Duel and the rainwater on violets of Eau de Ciel to the overly delicate whisper of Mandragore. However, Songes is unlike anything in the line, as it possesses a certain full-bodied richness that speaks of seduction and enchantment. The multifaceted top accord structured around jasmine breaks as if into the peals of bells. …

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