Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The orange opening Frédéric Malle Noir Epices is dark and dimly lit, as opposed to sparkling like a handful of glitter. Touched by the soft apricot notes, rose begins to unfold gently, wrapped in a foil of velvety green and herbal notes. The moment the orange sweetness is dimmed, the transition is akin to throwing open a door into an idealized vision of a souk, where spices are displayed in colorful mounds.

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New fragrance is about to be added to Armani Privé line, which already includes Ambre Soie, Bois d’Encens, Pierre de Lune, and Eau de Jade. It is called Cuir Améthyste, and is about to debut in the UK in November of 2005. In the States, it will appear early next year (according to Giorgio Armani fragrance representative). Notes include bergamot, amber and florals.

“Femme smells tactile, possessor of a velvet plushness like the down on skin or fruit; one wants to press one’s cheek against it,” writes Hannah Betts in her Sunday Times article The Moment I Wake Up, which explores the theme of perfume and unabashed femininity, using the examples of Rochas Femme and Madame Rochas.

Chandler Burr talks to Sarah Jessica Parker about the creation of Lovely and makes her uncover her secret perfume mix in his New York Times Article One Nosy Dame.

Femme ad from psine.net.

Unlike flowers wrapped in linen feel of the classic Cerruti 1881 introduced ten years earlier, Cerruti 1881 Collection is about dew covered petals and silk. Created by Yann Vasnier and Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the fragrance has a character of transparent layers, folded one over another, creating a composition that has a sensation of satiny softness.

The initial impression is of fine tulle thrown over a green floral bouquet, where crushed green leaves lend a crisp facet to the cool accord accented by hedione. The dewy quality reminiscent of jasmine and lily of the valley mélange attains a delicate plumy sweetness that becomes even more noticeable over time. The middle notes with their lush iris veiled by transparent cool mist segue into the drydown.

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Edmond Roudnitska, the creator of fragrances like Christian Dior Diorissimo, Eau Sauvage, Eau d’ Hermès and Frédéric Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse speaks on what inspires him to create a perfume.

It’s very variable. It’s never actually done twice in the same manner. It depends on the idea one has. I work with ideas, an idea for a perfume. A thought comes to my mind. I foresee, I visualize a certain form for a perfume. I try to construct it. I try it with the raw materials I lay out for myself. I try first to outline or sketch out the form with products that are most familiar to me, and then I try to modify it, and, step by step, this study goes along, because a study of this nature can last several years, and as it does, I might have my hand on some new raw material, and I say to myself, ‘Well, now, this might be just the thing I need to complete the form.’ And that’s how the experiment progresses.

And when are you satisfied?

Never.

Quote from “Perfume” by William Kaufman. Photo from art-et-parfum. Image by Michel Roudnitska.