No doubt, the lovers of Jean-Claude Ellena’s Hermessence series will be delighted to hear that the rumours of the new scent being added to the collection are true. Hermès is expecting to have a new fragrance this October. Although the representative could not confirm the exact composition, some sources such as parfum-echecs refer to it as a soft floral leather.

Moreover, Hermès confirmed that the house is releasing Parfum des Merveilles this fall (September in France). The fragrance will be an extrait de parfum version of Eau des Merveilles and will be available in a refillable 1/4oz bottle, like other Hermès extrait de parfum. It is playing up the bitter orange and ambergris accord of Eau des Merveilles with rich notes of cognac and candied fruit.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

While Givenchy Very Irrésistible for women turned into something quite sharp on my skin, the masculine version held an altogether different experience. Created by Pierre Wargnye, the fragrance has recently been released, featuring a beautiful bottle that fades from black to emerald green. Notes: grapefruit, star anise, mint; mocha, sesame seed; Virginia cedarwood, hazelnut wood.

The first impression is of grapefruit and mint leaves dusted with a bit of confectioner’s sugar, a cool mélange sweetened just enough to take away the astringent edge. A combination of mocha and sesame seeds results in a chocolate accord that resurfaces slowly underneath mint leaves and citrus peel shavings and creating a subtle gourmand sensation. It is gentle and teasing, a facet that I found very appealing. However, the chocolate stage is still veiled by a tart green note that remains present until the drydown. The translucent quality of this green ornamentation reminds me of a lime slice covered thin crisp layer of molten sugar, tart, spicy and pleasantly bittersweet.

The end result is underscored by cedar and a sharp green note, which is extemely pronounced on my skin. Its loudness upsets the balance of the composition, especially the seductive chocolaty accord. Nevertheless, it is still interesting, which is not something I can say about the majority of masculine fragrances.

Photo: Liv Tyler, the face of Givenchy Very Irrésistible campaign.

If you are looking for a shower gel version of L’Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons, then Midnight Tuberose would be a perfect choice. The scent of its pearly white cream captures perfectly a mist of jasmine and tuberose that makes La Chasse Aux Papillons so appealing. It lathers easily and lingers pleasantly on the skin, although not strongly enough to clash with whatever fragrance one decides to wear. Moreover, the addition of aloe vera makes it fairly emollient, which further contributes to my affection for this shower gel.

The best part is that it is priced rather reasonably at $7.99 for 12oz, and is available at various online and natural food stores. Drugstore is just one such place where it can be found. This proves that a true olfactory delight accompanying every morning shower does not have to be costly.

I am walking through a fragrance library, where scents and words are intertwined. I browse through the pages of perfume history, perfume images and various other bits of information a fragrance lover relishes. Whether I want to read about Daim Blond by Serge Lutens, creations by Jean-Claude Ellena or a fragrance in a Mossy Woods family, the information is at my finger tips. This veritable fragrance library is an online program created by Jan Moran, the author of Fabulous Fragrances series, in collaboration with Michael Edwards.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Creed Love in White, launched in August of 2005, is promoted as a global fragrance due to the fact the essences comprising it were hand-picked by Creed over five years, as he traveled on his yacht. The fragrance is composed of orange zest; risk husk, iris, white jasmine, daffodils, magnolia, rose; vanilla, ambergris, sandalwood.

Unlike most of Creed’s feminine fragrances, this is a lacy and soaring composition, from the burst of orange in the top notes to the sheer delicacy of the base. Orange sparkles melt into the rich heart of a white bouquet rendered effervescent by hedione, a very diffusive aroma chemical that simulates jasmine. In this sense, it reminds me of another Creed fragrance, Spring Flowers, which is a fruity-floral bouquet, accented by hedione. Unlike Spring Flowers, Love in White is a more transparent composition, lacking a juicy sweetness of Spring Flowers, yet both are extremely tenacious. In the end, Love in White remains a very linear fragrance that I cannot characterize in any other way as loud. The lack of development does not always forebode doom, but in this case, the fragrance does not meld into my skin, striking me rather like an artificial bouquet.

On the other hand, if you like Spring Flowers, you might want to try Love in White. It is available at select Neiman Marcus stores.