Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Recognizing women’s newfound love for sun and summer sports, Jean Patou was one of the first fashion and fragrance houses to introduce suntan oil which was named Chaldée, after an ancient Sumerian city. In 1927, Henri Alméras reinterpreted Chaldée in a fragrance form with notes of orange flower, hyacinth, jasmine; narcissus, lilac; vanilla, opoponax, amber.

Composed in a classical 1920s manner, Chaldée is a blend of white flowers on an ambery base. The initial accords are dark and heavy with the oily richness of hyacinth dominating, however the composition lightens as soon as the sunny mist of orange blossom and jasmine weaves in. Powdery warmth of amber made deliciously sweet by a haze of vanilla constitutes a base upon which delicate white blossoms fall. It has an appealing richness that could translate as powderiness, however smooth greenness of hyacinth provides a beautiful counterpoint, which balances out the dark warmth.

While the EDT is well-done, I would love to try the parfum version, which I would imagine to be even more stunning. Chaldée was available as a part of the Ma Collection, a set of classical Jean Patou fragrances released between 1925-1964. It can still be found fairly easily at various online discount stores.

Update on the 2014 reissue: a warm, sweet white floral that takes on a musty, pungent twist. It’s a pleasant blend overall, but the drydown is a let down.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Parfums de Nicolaï Juste Un Rêve (1996), true to its name, is a dream of a fragrance. A dream of lush flowers dropping petals onto hot sand and of sweet haze of carefree summer. A burst of opulent monoi warms up the skin like a ray of sunshine. There is nothing bashful about its sumptuous scent redolent of coconut and white peaches. Yet, it is a perfect setting for the intertwining melody of luscious sweet rose and banana tinged jasmine. Creamy and satiny, it is a fragrance that stays close to the skin, yet entices if one is lucky to get close enough to the wearer. A whisper of iris balances out what could have been an overly sweet and lush drydown, resulting in a perfectly ornamented composition, which could not be described as anything but stunning.

I never fail to be surprised by the lack of attention Parfums de Nicolaï receive in the States, not only because the fragrances are masterfully composed, but also because the range of both personal and room fragrances is diverse and exciting. Perhaps, it is because the products are much more reasonably priced in Europe, while in the States, they incur a heavy markup. Parfums de Nicolaï were founded by Patricia de Nicolaï, a descendant of Pierre Guerlain, Jacques Guerlain’s brother, and her husband Jean-Louis Michau in 1989. The house has several boutiques, the locations of which can be discovered directly from Parfums de Nicolaï. Fragrances and ancillary products are available online at Beautyhabit, First-in-Frangrance, New London Pharmacy, Senteurs d’Ailleurs.

As I have learned, Yves Saint Laurent Kouros, created by Pierre Bourdon in 1981, is a controversial fragrance, with opinions ranging from absolute devotion to utter repulsion. A few encounters revealed why it might be the case. The opening notes tingle with camphorous eucalyptus and tart bergamot, spreading out in cool waves on the skin. The rich fougère composition is ornamented by mace, bay leaf and sage, which lend a spicy edge. Soapy quality becomes more pronounced the longer the fragrance remains on the skin, calling to mind Blue Irish Spring soap. Between the top and the base, the composition is sustained as fresh and almost marine, layered with soapy notes.

When you are completely lulled into thinking that it is a gentle, unoffensive fragrance that might work on both men and women, then curious and disconcerting transformations begin to take place. First, it is just a whiff of something sweet and plastic redolent. Sweet and soapy note later, the composition evolves slowly, but after about an hour, the smell of civet starts to emerge. Have you ever smelled civet full strength? Without using more colorful terminology, I would describe it as extremely fecal. The same note comprises the base of Kouros, and while it is not exactly dominant, its animalic breath suffuses the composition fully. Combined with the fact that it is extremely sweet on me, the drydown is not exactly appealing.

The end result is odd, which is why I wore Kouros in the privacy of my home on more than one occasion trying to decide whether I am repulsive or amused by it. Even though I cross olfactory gender boundaries often, I decided to sample Kouros on a man to determine whether it might register differently. This little experiment led to the fact that my thus far compliant test subject rebelled and protested against any further fragrance tests on him. In other words, despite its unique and brazen structure, I would rather admire Kouros’ unconventionality from a distance. However, I would love to hear opinions of those who wear and love this fragrance, because as I understand it has quite a following.

Notes: Aldehydes, Artemesia, Bergamot oil, Clary Sage oil, Coriander, Laurel, Carnation, Cinnamon, Geranium, Jasmin, Orris, Patchouli, Vetiver, Amber, Civet, Honey, Leather, Moss, Musk, Tonka, Vanilla.

Bathing with Diptyque Olène soap is like stepping into the sunshine and finding oneself in a flurry of falling petals. A delicate blend of wisteria, narcissus, honeysuckle and jasmine fills the space like a magical bouquet. Close your eyes, and you can almost imagine yourself standing under a wisteria tree, its purple clusters of flowers close enough to caress to cheek. While the EDT created by Serge Kalouguine in 1988 opens up with a slap of honeysuckle, which softens in the heart, both the soap and the shower gel layer the hot sharpness immediately with a fruity whisper of jasmine. The wisteria adds a spicy edge, while the honeysuckle is present as a delicate haze of sweetness. Soap rewards one with a lingering and enveloping scent that I find perfect in the summer, but even more so in the winter to chase away the blues and the cold. Shower gel is likewise wonderfully scented, however I find it a little drying as well as not as lingering.

Diptyque hard milled soaps are of an exceptional quality, with diverse and unusual scents. They linger wonderfully after the shower and scent the room where they are kept. At $15 (one soap) or $38 (for a set of three), soaps can be obtained from Aedes, Beautyhabit, Bigelow Chemists, Four Seasons, and Sloan Hall, as well as selected department stores and Diptyque boutiques. In the States, there are two charming locations in Boston and San Francisco, both of which I love.

The most interesting aspect of Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier is its ability to change dramatically on my skin, revealing different facets of the composition. At first, it is a delicate citrus, which warms into an elegant orange blossom. Subsequently, the composition becomes sweetened by a honey note, which is gorgeous, creating a sense of sunlight entering the room on a warm summer morning. The drydown is balanced by a hint of tuberose and musk. Although the musk dominates, it is cashmere soft, gently soapy and sensual, rather than sharp or animalic. I have discovered that it works remarkably well during hot weather, because the notes meld beautifully into the skin, without overwhelming. Fleurs de Citronnier (2004) is another creation by Serge Lutens and Chris Sheldrake.

For those who like to experiment, Fleurs de Citronniers layers beautifully with Vétiver Oriental, creating a composition with subdued musk and unique pairing of earthy vetiver and sweet orange blossom.