Jo Malone’s new fragrance about to debut in fall of 2005 is going to feature notes of tart pomegranate and heady patchouli, according to W magazine. I love the scent of pomegranate, from powdery green aroma of its peel to tangy sweet fragrance of the ruby red pulp, therefore I am very curious to see what Jo Malone take will be like. Pomegranate Noir is going to debut in October.

The day is wonderfully serene, helped by the fact that I am away from my computer, my cell phone and a massive pile of work that is supposed to evolve into a dissertation. The surface of the river is reflecting the sun shine, with the waves breaking up rays into small gilded pieces. I swim across the dark water to reach a big stone where I strech out, enjoying a contrast between the cold water and its warm rough surface. The river provides a respite from the heat that seems to be suffocating the city. The smell of the water is sweet, with the wind bringing the scent of tall pine trees near the beach. Even the sun seems to attain a smell as it hits the skin—soft, dry and ambery. If there is a reason to like summer, then it is for the perfect moments like these.

While heat and humidity never made summer very appealing for me, summer scents are among most memorable. They are the scents of the gardens in full bloom, of hot stones and summer drinks sipped slowly while sitting at a small café. The essence of summer is in the scent of cool watermelon eaten on the beach as well as in the scent of hot asphalt and dusty leaves. As for a perfect summer fragrance, certain perfumes work particularly well in the summer, either because they are transparent citruses that chill the skin or luscious flowers that blossom in the warm air. My list (in no particular order) encompassed both:

1. Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien
2. The Different Company Divine Bergamote
3. Guerlain Eau Impériale
4. Comptoir Sud Pacifique Tiaré
5. Hermessence Poivre Samarcande
6. Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier
7. Parfums 06130 Yuzu Rouge
8. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Anisia Bella
9. Chanel Cristalle Eau de Toilette
10. Parfums de Nicolaï Juste Un Rêve

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Jean-Claude Ellena’s take on citrus results in a brilliant clarity supported by a minimalistic and subtly sensual foundation. When The Different Company Divine Bergamote first debuted in 2003, my expectations were of a straightforward citrus fragrance supported by a cedarwood base—a common pairing in perfumery. However, from the first explosion of silky sweet and astringent bergamot to the base notes of soft delicate musk, the fragrance never developed like I imagined.

Ellena used 70% of natural bergamot in the composition and fused it with ginger, which highlights the spicy and chilly quality of the top notes. Like Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade, another Ellena creation, Divine Bergamote is ornamented beautifully with both floral and verdant touches, none of which are distinct enough to be readily recognized. Yet, they weave seamlessly through the composition, modifying and softening the astringency of citrus. One moment, I smell a cup of chilled ginger tea; the next, a crushed flower bud. Through this impressionistic mélange, I notice a delicate scent of skin after a day in the sun. There is a mere hint of warmth, yet it is enough to lend a whisper of sensuality to the drydown and a doze of interest to what could have been just a sparkling citrusy fragrance.

Notes: bergamot (70% of natural bergamot), ginger, orange blossom, leaf green, rhubarb (wood), musk.

Apparently, one of the accords in Carnal Flower, a new tuberose fragrance from Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums will be Juicy Fruit gum. As Frédéric Malle said to W magazine, “One of my children was chewing a piece of gum the other day that gave me an idea for a fruity note that added sex appeal to the whole thing.” This comment is very interesting, particularly because I recall Jean-Claude Ellena mentioning that he smells bubblegum in jasmine. We will see how Carnal Flower will exploit this note. The fragrance will premier in September in France and will feature notes of tuberose, orange blossom, coconut milk and camphor. Thank you for the article, Robin!

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Colette, a Parisian rue St. Honoré store featuring a variety of avant-garde fashion and beauty lines is about to debut its own limited edition collection of fragrances. Working with three fashion houses, As4, Hussein Chalayan, and Bless, Colette and fragrance company Symrise created three shared fragrances, which are going to debut as “Curated by Colette” in September of 2005.

Three as Four Parfum interprets iris as cold petals not unlike the iris in Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. Frank Volkl, the nose behind the fragrance, worked with As4 to create a fragrance that had a sparkling feel, yet stayed close to the skin. Glittering notes are provided by a hesperidic accord of lime and bergamot, however iris is not obscured by dry citrus notes. On contrary, it is highlighted and rendered as lush blossoms opening slowly on a cold spring morning. The scents of wet soil, first spring buds, raindrops on the leaves are conjured when vetiver rises up to enfold iris. Ginger is another surprising touch, infusing a spicy bite into the cold slightly earthy iris. The drydown is smooth dry cedarwood and sweet sandalwood accenting the chilled notes perfectly and lending a complex base to the ethereal notes of the heart. While it is a subtle fragrance, it is hardly a typical fresh scent. In some ways, it is not unlike Parfums 06130 Yuzu Rouge, except instead of tea rose and blackcurrant, it is an iris and ginger composition. It has a reasonable tenacity on my skin, with ¼ of my sample vial being enough to last for the entire day.

There are two other fragrances that were featured as a part of the limited edition release for Colette. Design duo Désirée Heiss and Inès Kaag of Bless and Marc Buxton (the nose behind CdG Cologne, #2, #3 and Cartier Pasha) worked together to recreate the scents of Nutella, tea, shampoo, and spices of their childhood memories. The notes include: cardamom, cypress, ginger, geranium, thyme, maté absolute and a touch of “shortbread accord.”

For Hussein Chalayan, Marc Buxton created a fragrance that was an olfactory memory of a trip from London to Istanbul, with its impressionistic accords of flowers, spices and urban smells. Notes are bergamot, cardamom, tea leaves, rose, lily, birch tar, patchouli, Atlas cedar wood, fir balsam, sandalwood.

Photo: Colette store. All three fragrances, which can be ordered from Colette, will sell for 50 euros per 1.7oz bottle. Three hundred of each scent will be sold.