French Marie-Claire carried a mention of Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, a new tuberose fragrance composed by Dominique Ropion (Une Fleur de Cassie). The fragrance is supposed to feature notes of tuberose, orange blossom, coconut and camphor. Retail price is 120 € for 50 ml (thank you, I!). If it is anything like Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, this is going to be my first fall purchase once it debuts in September.

Agent Provocateur second fragrance Ménage à Trois (classified as feminine) is about to debut in France in February of 2006. UK company famous for its sexy lingerie can be counted on for another ravishingly seductive scent. Definitely worth the wait, especially since the first eponymous fragrance combining rose, saffron and amber was rather interesting.

Always wanted a custom fragrance created by a famous house, but feared that you do not have enough money in your bank account? In comparison with Jean Patou, Cartier and Guerlain who offer a bespoke service in the range of 30,000 euros and up, L’Artisan Parfumeur’s $5,000 seems like a very reasonable sum. I am certainly being facetious; however, the topic of custom fragrances never ceases to amuse me, seeming both decadent and strange. Decadent, because I can imagine better uses for that money, and strange, because I am closer to figuring out perpetuum mobile than a signature fragrance concept.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The scent pervading the pomegranate red interior of Hôtel Costes, located at 239 rue St-Honoré in Paris, is what made me want to enter its lobby, despite the intimidatingly posh interior. The mysterious and alluring scent possessed richness of Mysore sandalwood ornamented with sheer shimmering spices. The fragrance created by Olivia Giacobetti in collaboration with Rami Mekdachi in 2004 is an attempt to capture the dark elegance of Hôtel Costes inside a garnet bottle. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The scent of iris is one of the most complex and elusive, weaving in metallic violets and snow covered roots. It is a melancholy fragrance by its nature, and it is fascinating to explore the possibilities it offers.

Divine is a small French perfume house located in Dinard on the northern coast of Brittany. Founded by Yvon Mouchel, its line includes three feminine and three masculine fragrances, out of which L’Homme de Coeur and L’Homme Sage are composed by a young perfumer Yann Vasnier. L’Homme de Coeur is an interesting interpretation of iris that exploits its crisp coolness more than its powderiness redolent of violets.

The iris leitmotif that is about to persist like a gentle melody throughout the entire composition is evident upon the first inhale. Tinged by sparkling juniper, iris steps in the background and allows cypress to dominate. The sheer scent of cypress, reminiscent of fresh pinecones and dry needles is a wonderful counterpoint to the metallic glow of iris. The spicy fruit scent of angelica lends an unexpectedly vibrant note that provides a perfect segue into the voluptuous iris heart. As the fragrance dries down, it warms up with sweet winey mustiness of ambergris. Yet, iris that provided a cool breeze leaves its mark, especially when its earthy and icy qualities are heightened by vetiver. As a woman, I feel perfectly comfortable wearing L’Homme de Coeur, however on a man, it is just ravishing.

Photo: Claude Monet. Monet’s Garden, the Irises. 1900. Oil on canvas. Musée d’Orsay, Paris. abcgallery.com