Among quintessential summer perfumes, Eau d’Hadrien rules supreme. Created by perfumer Henri Sorsana and Annick Goutal in 1981, it is a crisp and effervescent fragrance that relies on the combination of lemon and grapefruit underscored by basil and cypress to capitalize on the burst that citrus can give to fragrances. The icy pearls of citrus notes scatter on the skin and provide a sensation of cold breeze. While the sparkling quality of citrus is wont to be shortlived, as it begins to vanish, dry piney notes of cypress embrace citrus, preventing its chilly glitter from melting away. Moreover, a touch of ylang ylang lends a subtle sweetness that combines perfectly with tart citrus notes. For me, Eau d’Hadrien is a walk down the sun lit road, where the heat of the sun competes with the cool wind swaying the trees lining the path.

Eau d’Hadrien soap is wonderful, and if one enjoys fresh citrusy scents, it will surely delight. The soaps are 4.2 oz each, beautifully packaged and decorated. Their strong scents linger pleasantly, making any of the soaps a great addition to the morning shower.

Painting: Wassily Kandinsky. Old Town II. 1902. Oil on canvas. 52 x 78.5 cm. Musée National d’Art Moderne, Centre Georges Pompidou, Paris, France.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The best summer fragrances manage to be refreshing as well as complex. When Marie-Hélène Rogeon’s line introduced Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zest de Rose in 2002, I immediately fell in love with its scent of white rose petals folded into lemon sorbet. Indeed, the top notes are very interesting reminding me of unopened rose buds due to the crisp and green accords of bergamot tempering the sweetness of roses.

The heart loses some of the citrusy effervescence, however it is still a gorgeous creamy white rose fragrance that remains fresh and sparkling. A touch of jasmine adds a dusky opulent note, whereas vetiver prevents the fragrance from being one-dimensional. The dry down of rose on the base of subtle sandalwood and vetiver touched by amber balanced subtle warmth and icy sting, not unlike caipirinha, a Brazilian drink made with ice, vodka, sugar and lime. Although the lasting power is average, Un Zest de Rose is such a perfect choice for the summer that I do not mind refreshing it.

Available at Aedes and First-in-Fragrance.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It makes perfect sense to review Yuzu Rouge alongside Un Zest de Rose, because they share some similarities, primarily the rose and citrus pairing. Parfums 06130 were created by Raphaël Haury, a young nose behind Clarins Par Amour and several Azzaro fragrances. The opening of Yuzu Rouge is a tart effervescence of citrus notes, sweet lemon and dry lime. While they do not replicate the scent of yuzu precisely, the combination is vibrant and uplifting. Tea rose with its sweet fragrance weaves in gently around the citrus notes, softening the sharpness and astringency. A touch of blackcurrant provides a juicy note that permeates pink rose petals in the heart of the composition and lends a tart green accent that makes the resulting composition light and sparkling. I find it similar to Un Zest de Rose by Parfums de Rosine, with a touch more berry in the drydown, however while Un Zest de Rose is a white rose sorbet, Yuzu Rouge is a rose flavored drink. It is difficult to decide which is one better, because while Un Zest de Rose is slightly more complex, Yuzu Rouge has become my staple due to the fact that it is very easy to wear despite heat and humidity of the East Coast summers.

Available at Aedes and Takashimaya in New York (call 212-350-0100).

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

JAR Diamond Waters is Joel Arthur Rosenthal’s rendition of a white blossom, barely touched by cool aldehydic dew. Aldehydes give a crisp opening to the top notes of white rose, interspersed with sweetness of orange blossom and apricot.

A green facet appears after the top notes gently meld into the heart, warmed up by tuberose and a note reminding me of casablanca lily. Honeyed sweetness lends another layer of complexity, which in juxtaposition with clove lends an interesting blend of sensations. Series of miniature carnation explosions create both a vision of fireworks and of light refracted through a prism.

For more information on the JAR Parfums, see my review of Golconda.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Ananas Fizz was a limited edition for the summer of 2004, which joined the regular line this summer. The top notes of shimmering luscious pineapple accented by delicate milky quality of the coconut milk dry down to a smooth base of sweet cedar. The finished result is along the tart elegance of Jean Patou Cocktail, albeit without neither as much complexity nor tenacity. Nevertheless, I would definitely want a bottle for the hot summer days, because there is nothing sharp nor cloying about the fragrance.

The body cream Crème d’Ananas comes in large heavy container, in a hue of bright summery green. The scent is of a juicy sweet pineapple with a sheer vanillic accord. While I love the rich emollient texture of the cream, on the skin, it turns into an extremely cloying fruit with an odd sour note. The matching candle Invitation Créole, on the other hand, is delicious. A small votive manages to release a rich scent of ripe pineapple tinged by dry woods, which tame the sweetness. Like nearly all L’Artisan candles, this one has a wonderful throw and manages to scent the room even when unlit.