I heard about plans to feature Youth Dew in a limited edition version for the winter holidays, and now the rumor turns out to be true–the new fragrance will be called Youth Dew Amber Nude. I like the original (1953), which is a dark spicy composition of bergamot, clove, rose and patchouli, with a rich ornamentation of powdery aldehydes and amber. As for the limited edition, I hope that it will more interesting that most of the modern takes on classical fragrances. The original will remain untouched, while the limited edition version will also accompany an eponymous color line starting early December. (from wwd).

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Walking through the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, I realize that in much the same way as great artworks inspire the new generation of artists, the influence of Jacques Guerlain’s Shalimar (1925) is felt in Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur (2000). Neither like Dalì simply imitated Picasso, nor is Musc Ravageur a copy of Shalimar. It is a fragrance with its own creative merit that incorporates elements from Jacques Guerlain’s composition in order to convey another vision. While Shalimar makes one wait in order to see what makes it a perfection—which one has to admit it is, whether one likes it or not, Musc Ravageur starts to unfold at once. Its animalic elements are seamlessly blended into dark vanillic warmth, interspersed with cool notes of bergamot and lavender. The heightened interplay of powerful sensations, from hot glow of amber to icy sting of citrus, is what makes Musc Ravageur a memorable composition from the first inhale.

While I do not like many scented body products, Frédéric Malle has impressed me with the quality of its ancillary lines. Musc Ravageur Oil is a great alternative to the Eau de Parfum, especially for those who find the initial balsamic burst too dark. It absorbs rapidly into the skin and, with some sacrifice of development, melds into a softer version of the EDP. The soft balsamic warmth of this sensual fragrance would also work wonderfully on a man.

Paintings (from left to right, click to enlarge): Salvador Dalì, Venus and a Sailor (1), 1925. Ikeda Museum of Twentieth Century Art, Shizuoka, Japan. Pablo Picasso, Mother and Child, 1921-22. The Alex L. Hillman Family Foundation, New York, NY, USA. (from dali-gallery.com and abcgallery.com, respectively.)

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I might be influenced by the description of Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose noting that Ralf Schwieger’s aim was to create a scent conjuring a woman who is half Gilda, half Silvana Mangano, but every time I put it on I envision Mangano, a sultry voluptuous Italian actress singing “Hay! Tengo ganas de bailar Un nuevo compas…” in her film from 1951 “Anna”. Intended to imitate the old-fashioned scent of lipstick, Lipstick Rose (2000) is indeed a fragrance that makes me want to pull out my tube of Chanel Coco Red. The blend of roses and violets exudes a classic femininity and elegance. It is not a fragrance that is sultry in the sense of Guerlain Nahéma or Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, however it is unmistakably an alluring scent. It is slightly powdery initially, however the powderiness lightens once vetiver lends its earthy note. Raspberry note is quite obvious in the drydown, and it saturates the base with a sweet glow. Lipstick Rose is hardly a modern take on a rose, however occasionally it strikes me that its vintage image borders on self-conscious.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Drôle de Rose (1996), provides a similar treatment of the rose, ornamenting it with violet and raspberry. Between these two, I would choose Lipstick Rose, because its richness makes the vintage reference quite appealing, whereas in the case of Drôle de Rose, the less voluptuous body leads to an overwhelming powdery sweetness.

Photo: Silvana Mangano (1921-1989), actress of Italy’s neo-realistic period.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

My first thought when I tried Frederic Malle Iris Poudre was of Anna Karenina and Tolstoy’s description of a lovely black gown she wore for that fateful ball. Rich sumptious velvet, black with a slight purple iridescence is how I envision this fragrance from Frédéric Malle collection. The top notes of soft aldehydes are richly ornamented by ylang ylang, magnolia and jasmine in a classical manner that recalls Chanel No. 5. The sonorous chord of iris slowly unfolds against this shimmery aldehydic backdrop. Iris becomes more pronounced in the heart, where it is sweet and lush, without a metallic overlay that often accompanies iris notes. The warm base of vanilla and sandalwood envelops the silkiness of iris petals dusted with delicate aldehydic powder, lending a gentle and elegant feel to the drydown.

The fragrance was created in 2000 by Pierre Bourdon, whose some other fragrances include Yves Saint Laurent Kouros (1981), Davidoff Cool Water (1988), Shiseido Féminité Du Bois (1992, with Christopher Sheldrake), and Christian Dior Dolce Vita (1995, with Maurice Roger).

Photo: Sophie Marceau as Anna Karenina in Bernard Rose’s film. Still by Keith Hamshere from http://movies.warnerbros.com/anna/. I cannot say that this is my favourite film version of my beloved novel, but Sophie Marceau is stunningly beautiful in it.

It has become a conventional wisdom in the world of perfume lovers that the large houses are often constrained by iron logic of the stock market. The logic dictates the production of fragrances that should appeal to as large number of people as possible in order to boost sales. Yet, to paraphrase John Stuart Mill, the common mean between creative excellence and wide appeal is often a “collective mediocrity.” Needless to say, as in almost every case, there are exceptions. However, it does not stop a fragrance consultant with an appreciation of beautiful things from thinking up a clever scheme—give nine of the most famous French noses as much creative space as they need to compose a fragrance of their dreams. There are few limitations in terms of price of the materials and the theme of the perfumes.

Frédéric Malle, grandson of the creator of Parfums Christian Dior Serge Heftler and nephew of the film maker Louis Malle, was born in 1962 in Paris. A self-proclaimed hedonist with a love for lilac, Joël Robuchon’s cuisine and Bach suites, he recalls that his love for beauty was fostered by his parents, especially by his father. “I am a sensual person,” says Malle in an interview. “You have to know how to look, smell and feel things.” Malle started working for Roure Bertrand Dupont in 1988, after finishing his degree at the New York University. Before starting Editions de Parfums in 2000, Malle was working as a fragrance consultant for Christian Lacroix, Chaumet and Hermès.

Unlike the common practice in the world of fragrance, Frédéric Malle places the perfumers in the spotlight. Every bottle is prominently labeled with the name of the artist responsible for the scent within. What is the result of the “auteur perfumery?” If Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums were paintings, they would be more suited for Center Pompidou than for Louvre, because they are truly modern compositions, even though many are classically composed, respecting the tri-tiered construction model. Such is Pierre Bourdon’s Iris Poudre, a composition capturing the scent of irises held close to the beautiful chest covered with a thin layer of powder. Other fragrances are conceived in a more linear style, minimalist and elegant as the lines of Giacometti’s sculptures. Cologne Bigarade created by Jean-Claude Ellena is a reflecting his predilection for clear and strong lines bathed in soft light. One thing is for certain—these fragrances must be sampled.

Editions de Parfums

Angéliques Sous la Pluie by Jean-Claude Ellena
Bigarade Concentrée by Jean-Claude Ellena
Cologne Bigarade by Jean-Claude Ellena
En Passant by Olivia Giacobetti
Iris Poudré by Pierre Bourdon
L’Eau d’Hiver by Jean-Claude Ellena
Le Parfum de Thérèse by Edmond Roudnitska
Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger
Lys Méditerranée by Edouard Fléchier
Musc Ravageur by Maurice Roucel
Noir Epices by Michel Roudnitska
Une Fleur de Cassie by Dominique Ropion
Une Rose by Edouard Fléchier
Vétiver Extraordinaire by Dominique Ropion
Carnal Flower by Dominique Ropion

Carnal Flower will be released in September of 2005 and will feature notes of tuberose, orange blossom, coconut and camphor. According to Frédéric Malle himself, it is the ultimate seduction perfume.

The first Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle boutique was opened in 2000 at 37, rue de Grenelle in Paris. Its interior, conceived in a collaboration with Andrée Putman and designed by Olivier Lempereur, is marked by clean lines and unique system of testing fragrances from olfactory columns. Although it is quite an interesting way of experiencing scents, I much prefer the traditional skin test.

In addition to another store on Avenue Victor Hugo, which opened in 2004, Editions de Parfums line is available at Taizo in Cannes, Dries van Noten in Antwerp, Natan/Treize in Brussels, Barneys New York, Isetan in Tokyo, and at Flinders Way Boudoir in Melbourne. One of the most appealing additions to the line is a test kit, which contains 5ml atomizer bottles of each fragrance available. Tester kit and the fragrances along with the ancillary products are available online at Editions de Parfums site.

Photo: Frédéric Malle.