Perfume 101: 517 posts

I am standing in front of my perfume shelves unable to choose a fragrance to commemorate the birth of 2007. “I have no perfume to wear,” flashed in my head, although a moment later I am wincing from the ridiculousness of this notion. I remember some socialist thinker asserting that the problem of modern society is the surfeit of choice. Indeed, there might be some truth in this. I discard Bvlgari Black, because my Russian superstitious alter ego whispers against wearing black on the first day of the year. I am not in the mood for Guerlain Shalimar, and I wore Caron Nuit de Noël a few days ago. This seems like a tough decision. …

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Marian Bendeth, the founder of Sixth Scents, is a fragrance expert and consultant based in Toronto, Canada. Before I met Marian, I had read plenty of articles in which she was described as a magician of scent, as someone who was able to nail a person’s personality based on their favorite fragrances. When Marian and I spoke on the phone for the first time and she described me down to my idiosyncrasies based on a selection of my beloved perfumes, I was speechless. Marian’s extensive experience fuels her research on the relationship between fragrance preferences and personality, the emotional effects of perfume and the influence of body chemistry, thus allowing her to offer fascinating insights on all aspects of fragrance. She has also worked with some of the most renowned perfumers and perfume industry professionals on countless perfume projects and has written for a variety of Canadian and online publications. It is a great pleasure to welcome Marian’s contribution to Bois de Jasmin, in which she explores the pros and cons of the signature scent concept.

“It’s my signature scent!!”
By Marian Bendeth …

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Can one pack up an entire apartment, complete with a vintage fragrance collection in less than 72 hours? From my personal experience, I can tell that this is not a pleasant enterprise; yet, the ballet training has instilled stamina and discipline in me. Every morning when I wake up in the apartment filled with boxes and suitcases, I feel a pang. This was the place where I spent several years, which might seem perfect in the retrospect. I sat down for many hours at this table writing, reading, memorizing chemical formulas and studying aroma-materials. I walk from room to room, observing familiar details that will soon blur into the memories of the past. In a few days, the new routine will engulf me, but right now, indulging in reminiscences seems appropriate. …

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Women’s Wear Daily article for June 30th mentioned May 2006 top 5 sellers. It is interesting to see what leads in the feminine and masculine fragrances.

Women:
Beautiful (Estée Lauder)
Euphoria (Calvin Klein)
Pleasures (Estée Lauder)
Chanel No 5
Romance (Ralph Lauren)

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The dark slender branches are bent under the weight of the snow, forming an arch over my head. Shielding my face from the large soft snowflakes, I look up at a sky in which the pale disk of the sun drowns in a pearly white haze. My first memory of snow is difficult to trace. I just remember walking to school through snow banks that were twice my height. The snow would sparkle under the street lamps, lighting the early morning darkness, a darkness that would only lift much later in the day. Even now I can wake up in the morning and sense that it is snowing because of the serenity and slumber which seem to take over the world at that particular moment. The only thing one wishes is to make a strong cup of caravan tea, wrap oneself in a blanket and sit next to the cold window watching the snow fall, fall, fall….

The crisp, mineral and slightly ozonic smell of the snow is one of the most important smells that I associate with winter. I have yet to encounter its realistic rendition in fragrance; however, there are a few fragrances that capture the spirit of the winter garden. Frozen branches and soil attain the most unusual scent that folds earthy and woody elements into metallic clarity. Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is the scent of frozen roots and iced flower petals and has a beautiful chilliness that does not dissipate even after the fragrance dries down. …

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