2012 launches: 129 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Tom Ford Private Blend Lavender Palm was first presented at Tom Ford’s LA boutique last February. This year it finally went into wider distribution. Created by perfumer Yann Vasnier, Lavender Palm reinterprets the main fougère element, lavender. It frames the note with bergamot, lemon, lime blossom, clary sage, frankincense and woods. It is an elegant fragrance built on a rich aromatic accord.

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I recently spotted Stella McCartney’s new signature fragrance L.I.L.Y at the duty-free store.  It will be launched in the UK in April (the US launch at Sephora will happen in September 2012.) L.I.L.Y was created in collaboration between McCartney and perfumer Jacques Cavallier. It is a modern green chypre with a dominant lily of the valley accord. The first thing that I noticed was an interesting salty note, which makes this fresh and radiant lily of the valley accord surprising.  A note to self: to be revisited.

As McCartney explained to the Moodie report about the creation of L.I.L.Y:

“To bring in a more masculine, sensual element I started looking at moss, which I felt was the perfect complement. Then I found myself in Paris in the Autumn, during truffle season, and realised that was the final, darker, sexy element I’d been searching for.”

Cavallier added, “Perfumery is built on the art of contrasts. You need something black in order to make the white thing nice… Stella wanted a fragrance that redefined the extremely natural and fresh image of lily of the valley. To create more depth, we infused it with notes of truffle from the Perigord region of France, adding a diffuse, caressing texture.” Oak moss also features in the dry-down. “It was not easy to combine these ingredients but ultimately we succeeded. Stella is very demanding, but in a good way. She allows no compromises.”

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

When I read about the niche perfume line by Kilian coming out with Amber Oud, a new fragrance for its Arabian Nights Collection, I did not feel at all excited. Another oud, another amber, another overplayed trendy note. So, when a helpful sales associate at Saks asked me if I wanted to try the new fragrance, I reluctantly reached for the blotter. I gingerly sniffed the white paper, and suddenly I was charmed. As I was drawn deeper into the spicy warmth of Amber Oud, I could not even hear the din of Saks’s beauty department, nor did I realize that I was blocking someone’s way. I was only conscious of the dark sweetness coming off the blotter, a mélange of spices, vanilla liqueur and smoky woods.

Sure enough, by Kilian’s prices brought me to the ground with a thud. Still I walked away with a sample, with which I have been living for the past couple of weeks. The beguiling moment of my first encounter with Amber Oud comes back whenever I wear it, which is a rare delight. There is nothing tired about this idea—the dense and rich oud is interspersed with the dry, crisp amber, which cuts through the richness and heft. The medicinal, “band aid” impression disliked by oud detractors is not obvious here. Like perfumer Calice Becker’s other ouds for by Kilian, Rose Oud and Pure Oud, it is similarly luminous. However, Amber Oud is the softest of her oud interpretations, a perfume with a suave, caressing character.

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Jo Malone first launched Red Roses cologne for the Valentine’s Day in 1996. This classical rose composition was created by perfumers Lucien Piguet and Patricia Bilodeau who framed a sweet rose accord with notes of lemon, violet leaves, spearmint, clove, sandalwood, musk, and honeycomb.

In time for this year’s Valentine’s Day holiday, Nordstrom is once again promoting The Red Roses Fragrance Chronicle™, a coffret of three accords used in the original Red Roses. “Sweet Lemon brings tantalising transparency; Scarlet Velvet Rose adds richness; and Honeycomb, a nectar-like warmth.” They can be layered or used individually.  The coffret contains Red Roses Cologne (1 oz.), Sweet Lemon Cologne Accord (0.3 oz.), Scarlet Velvet Rose Cologne Accord (0.3 oz.) and the Honeycomb Cologne Accord (0.3 oz.) and retails for $110. There is also a new Red Roses Bath Oil (8.5oz, $65). Via Nordstrom.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

I have not been excited about any release from Guerlain’s L’Art et La Matière Line since Bois d’Arménie with its softly sketched out woody accord. Iris Ganache and Tonka Impériale were enjoyable, but like a high-calorie dessert, too rich to savor for long. An acquaintance with Myrrhe et Delires, on the other hand, quickly turned into an infatuation.

Peppery and citrusy at first, Myrrhe et Délires immediately changes course into the woody direction. At the heart of Myrrhe et Délires is a beautiful floral accord, which allows you to enjoy the cool, earthy touch of iris and the honeyed embrace of rose. The powdery candy-like violet and the milky peach add a pleasant sweetness.  Just as you settle in to linger over these morsels, you become aware of the savory, cool leitmotif running through Myrrhe et Délires, that of myrrh.

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