serge lutens: 63 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

When Serge Lutens decides to explore the hesperidic theme, one can be certain that the result will be a tale with a variety of fascinating characters and intricate subplots. Mandarine Mandarin, the newest fragrance created by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake, fulfills this expectation, resulting in an opulent oriental composition dominated by spice and amber. In contrast to the Arabian Nights adventures of Lutens and Sheldrake’s previous collaborations, Mandarine Mandarin offers a glimpse into A Dream of the Red Chamber, the 18th century Chinese Qing Dynasty novel. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The most compelling aspect of Serge Lutens’s fragrances lies in their exaggerated character, whether it is the tannic bitterness of oak in Chêne, the hay sweetness of coumarin in Chergui or the mineral chill of iris in Iris Silver Mist. Chypre Rouge does not deviate from the jewel encrusted opulence that one can glimpse in other Lutens compositions; however, the finished result reflects a blend of various elements that can equally well recount the story of Scheherazade as well as that of Hänsel und Gretel. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Sometimes one becomes captivated with the beauty of a composition upon first inhaling it, and sometimes it takes more time. In the case of Serge Lutens Miel de Bois, repeated exposure does indeed uncover new facets; however, these discoveries do not result in my increased appreciation for it. Quite the opposite, I realize even more why it does not appeal to me. Part of the problem is that I envision a magical forest of trees dripping with honeyed nectar, yet instead I end up in an alley filled with malodorous miasmas.

Phenylacetic acid in extremely low concentrations has a luscious honey and animalic malt odor; however, in large dozes, it becomes distinctly urinous. Miel de Bois seems to explore the latter aspect of it, and the dry accord of woods touched with animalic leather provides a supporting arrangement which does nothing to dim the effect. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Serge Lutens Chergui stings with hot spices that cover the skin like fine grains of sand, sharp, slightly abrasive and warm. Romantically named after the blood-boiling Moroccan wind that blows in off the desert during the summer, Chergui has the spicy intensity, yet its hot breath is tamed by the sweet and floral elements. Created in 2001 by Christopher Sheldrake, it is an Arabian Nights vignette in a liquid form.

The candied quality melts in the smoke whispers that fill the arrangement, like incense smoke seeping through the carved screens. The floral accord folded into the smoky layers of Chergui lightens density and sweetness, lending a voluptuous silky quality. The fine cured Virginia tobacco notes overlaid on the smoky leathery base give the composition a slightly masculine character, counterbalancing the sweet notes….

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

French fauvist painter Henri Matisse once observed that “there is nothing more difficult for a truly creative painter than to paint a rose, because before he can do so he has first to forget all the roses that were ever painted.” The same could be said about the perfumer and the art of creating a rose fragrance. At once familiar and desirable, the rose theme has been explored in the modern perfumery quite widely, which means that creating something new and daring requires not only forgetting the classical traditions, but also being able to erase the familiarity, to surprise and to even shock.

The beauty of Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit, created by perfumer Gilles Romey lies in its abstraction of a delicate blossom into a nocturnal animalic scent, as if the petals slowly transform into the warm skin. Every single quality one might expect of rose—sweetness, powderiness, brightness, is twisted into its opposite. Where the roses might evoke delicate softness, Rose de Nuit sheds dark petals, withered at the edges. …

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