Classical Fragrances Part II

Bandit

I have been wrapping up a few projects over the past few days, which turned out to be rather busy. I returned home on Sunday night to discover your great responses to Guy Robert’s list of legendary perfume classics. Now, I would have loved to know your own classical favorites. If you were to make a list of fragrances everyone must try at least once, what would it include?

Here are my own choices (in no particular order, limited to a practical number, not including anything that was discontinued or reformulated beyond recognition):

Chanel No 5 — an example of a classical floral aldehydic fragrance, a beautiful abstraction.
Chanel Bois des Iles — it was lost in the shadows of No 5, but its avant-garde spirit and beauty are beyond the influence of time. If I were to pick the only Chanel, Bois des Iles would be my personal choice.
Chanel No 19 — elegant and assertive, an exquisite example of an intensely green fragrance in the family of Balmain Vent Vert (the original).
Caron Nuit de Noël — a perfect example of the elegant Caron style.
Caron Pour Un Homme — a quintessential pairing of lavender and amber.
Guerlain Mitsouko — one of the first remarkable chypres, a fragrance family combining citrusy, floral, woody, mossy, musky and/or ambery facets.
Guerlain Shalimar — the Oriental of orientals.
Guerlain Vol de Nuit — perhaps not the most famous of Guerlain’s, but a remarkable fragrance which is far ahead of its time when it appeared in 1933.
Guerlain Nahéma — it was a complete flop for Guerlain, primarily because of the circumstances surrounding its launch. Yet, passionate, voluptuous and daring, Nahema remains as a fascinating example of Guerlain’s brocaded and rich style.
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage — a luminous and radiant composition that has shown that flowers and virility are not the mutually exclusive concepts.
Christian Dior Diorella — a brilliant juxtaposition of youthful innocence and smouldering sensuality.
Christian Dior Dioressence — a unique green oriental.
Estée Lauder Youth Dew — a fragrance that changed the face of American perfumery.
Estée Lauder White Linen — a precursor for the new monolithic style of perfumery that blossomed further in the 1990s.
Robert Piguet Fracas — the ultimate and perhaps unsurpassed tuberose fragrance.
Knize Ten — a quintessential leather. Caron Tabac Blond, Robert Piguet Bandit and Chanel Cuir de Russie are the other excellent examples.
Ralph Lauren Lauren and Polo — the first two paired fragrances, the quintessential American scents.

Whenever I make these, I realize that they become merely a tip of an iceberg…

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55 Comments

  • Madelyn E: Dear Victoria, I love favorites . Here are some of mine ”
    Chanel – No 5 – classic floral aldehyde ..
    Bois Des Iles – fave of all tine – floral amber . lingering , sensual
    Opium
    Dior. Diorissimo
    Miss Dior. Dolce Vita
    Paloma Picasso. Coco Chanel. Hermes – Caleche, Eau D’orange Verte , Hiris,
    Patou – 1000 = classic elegance
    FM’ Musc Ravageur
    My beloved Annick Goutal – Passion ( edp)
    Halston, and Halston Night
    Mary Macfadden ( remember ?now dc’d)
    Balmain – Jolie Madame
    Givenchy – Le De. L’interdit(original )
    Joy, Fracas , Diva , Arpege, Clinique Aromatics, Youth Dew, Estee
    Well , dear V.. as you can see, i could go on and on..
    Thanks for a wonderful list – am now eyeing Caron Nuit De noel et Diorella !
    Scented Thoughts To you –
    Madelyn E November 7, 2006 at 1:47am Reply

  • portlandia: Well, it’s hard to top your list, but I would add many of the Patou line, from the earliest days to the present. Chaldee, Vacances, Normandie, Adieu Sagesse, Amour Amour, Colony, 1000, Joy, Sublime. All of these were ahead of their time and still wonderful today though many are sadly discontinued. I know some people don’t “get along” with certain lines, but Patou and Caron are my “soulmate” lines. I would also add Caron’s Parfum Sacre to the essentials list even though it’s not vintage, as there is nothing else remotely like it, as well as their Muguet de Bonheur, the best muguet soliflore IMHO, as I do not consider Diorissimo to be a soliflore.

    My “I don’t get it” line is Guerlain, at least the feminine fragrances, but maybe that’s because the truly great ones are so hard to find and I have not even tried things like Vega and Vol de Nuit. (I do “get” Nahema, however, and it’s on my all-time great list as well.)

    Among the Diors, Diorissimo is my favorite of all by far.

    Along the same lines, Creed Fleurissimo is a standout. (And of course Fracas, on your list and probably everyone’s.)

    More essential classics: D’Orsay Intoxication d’Amour, Schocking de Schiaparelli, Rochas Femme, Madame Rochas, Guerlain Habit Rouge, Caron Yatagan, Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel, YSL Opium, Gres Cabochard, Guy Laroche Fidji.

    And yes, it’s just the tip of the iceberg! 🙂 November 7, 2006 at 2:04am Reply

  • Laia: Here´s my selection:

    Shalimar. Guerlain´s the greatest for me and wearing a perfume created back in 1927 (I think this is the date)is very inspiring. Slaimar for me is the epitome of perfume.
    Eau Impériale from Guerlain. Eugenia de Montijo´s, cologne.She was Spanish, married to Napoleon III and the icon of elegance Once again wearing Guerlain is wearing history.
    I don´t like Chanel very much (sorry) but I think Chanel nº 5 must be in the list.
    Joy from Patou
    Angel from Thierry Mugler started a legend so I think it´s a classical.
    Eau d´Hadrien and Grand Amour from Annick Goutal
    Maderas de Oriente from Myrurgia. Nobody knows about this Spanish perfume house but in its time it was very very big and very well know. Maderas is like a subdued Shalimar, with wood and a powdery trail. It´s marvellous and it doesn´t exist anymore. But I have smelled a bottle from 1930 and it´s still marvellou.
    Private Collection and White Linen from Estee Lauder.
    Eau d´Orange Verte and Amazone from Hermés
    Eau de Rochas November 7, 2006 at 3:24am Reply

  • benvenuta: This is an admirable list, V.

    I don`t feel qualified to write a whole list, I`ll try to add some scents to yours. (I consider most of your selections the most classic of classics and as for those I haven`t tried – Knize Ten, Caron pour un homme – I trust your judgement)
    I`d add an example of a classic citrus and orange blossom eau de cologne. Eau Imperiale or 4711.
    Patou Joy
    Diorissimo
    Jicky

    I also realize that my list of scents that everyone must try would also include scents that I do not necessarily consider classic or even particularly good, but a perfume enthusiast should try them just for reference. Scents that are best examples of their genre, scents that started a new trend etc. Just for reference.
    Angel, because of the whole gourmand and no-flowers-included thing
    Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert, because of the tea scents trend it started (as far as I know, Bulgari was first)
    L`Eau d`Issey – one of first aquatic scents
    CK One as an example of a 90s unisex scent

    I`m sure I`ll think of more as soon as I drink more coffee. November 7, 2006 at 5:40am Reply

  • Laia: Oh dear, Benvenuta is right. Bulgari Eau au Thé Vert and Bulgari Extreme must be in the list absolutely. And Bulgari Femme is also a marvellous perfume. And perhaps we must put also this ( for me horrible) Eau d´Issey Miyake. It started the calone tsunami. November 7, 2006 at 6:25am Reply

  • Dmitri: Diorissimo CD – the most romantic lily of the valley
    Opium YSL – the most evident presence with highly seductive and feminine impact
    Chypre Coty, last edition – the most multifaceted chypre-fragrance
    Amazone Hermes – the most elegant chypre
    Miss Dior CD – the richest and darkest chypre
    Apres l’Ondee – the classical interpretation of a garden just after the rain
    Samsara Guerlain – modern oriental
    Marechale CP – classical oriental
    Liu Guerlain 1999 – aldehydic floral
    L’Air du Temps NR – the most delicate carnation
    Paris Coty – stunning lilac-lily of the valley combination
    Vega Guerlain – art deco fragrance
    Belle Epoque Guerlain – the most delicate tuberose
    Tabac Blond Caron – fruity-floral-leather
    Creed Cuir de Russie – the most authentic Russian leather
    Magie Lancome – for beautiful musk accents
    Fidji Laroche – beautiful santal perfume
    Beautiful EL – American classics
    Sous le Vent Guerlain – green chypre November 7, 2006 at 6:42am Reply

  • Dusan: Vika, the only addition I would make to your list is my favourite Chanel, Chanel pour Monsieur, a beautiful chypre. And a question: what makes a fragrance a classic – the year of its creation or its cult status?
    Hugs November 7, 2006 at 7:24am Reply

  • Marina: Fun!! Mine would be:
    Chanel Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, No 19, No 22, Coco

    Dior Miss Dior, Diorling, Diorama, Diorella, Dior-Dior, Diorissimo and Dioressence (so basically everything up to J’Adore :-))

    Guerlain Djedi, Derby, Vol de Nuit, Guet-Apens (a classic already, right?)

    Rochas Femme and Madame Rochas

    Caron Farnesiana, Poivre and Parfum Sacre (another instant classic) November 7, 2006 at 8:31am Reply

  • Flor: One perfume I would add to the list is Givenchy III. A great green chypre. Possibly one of the best Givenchy perfumes ever. Another one no one mentioned is L’Huere Bleue (Guerlain). It’s such a beautiful perfume. The only one I think that truly evokes a melancholy feeling, like a sad song. November 7, 2006 at 8:51am Reply

  • Judith: OK, mine is to repeat a lot of choices, but. . . it’s fun to make

    Chanel: Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, #5, #19
    Guerlain: Mitsouko, Jicky, Djedi, Derby, Sous le Vent
    Caron: Tabac Blond, Poivre, En Avion
    Dior: Miss Dior, Diorling
    Lanvin: Scandal
    Lancome: Magie (and Cuir:)
    YSL: Opium
    Piguet: Fracas, Bandit
    Creed: Angelique Encens
    Gres: Cabochard November 7, 2006 at 9:20am Reply

  • March: Of course I like your list because it includes so many Guerlains… I would add Jicky. I really need to re-try White Linen, I’m not sure I ever gave that a fair shake. November 7, 2006 at 10:01am Reply

  • March: I’d also add Lanvin Arpege, although maybe that’s in your “reformulated beyond recognition” category 😉 and Baghari too, just because it makes me happy. November 7, 2006 at 10:03am Reply

  • violetnoir: Oh my, what happened up above?

    Anyway: Hooray for Fracas! I would also add:

    Joy, Diorissimo, L’Air du Temps, Opium, Rive Gauche, No. 5, No. 19, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Chloe, Lauren, Angel, Cristalle, Coco, and Bellodgia, just to name a few.

    So many classics…too little time.

    Hugs! November 7, 2006 at 12:04pm Reply

  • carmencanada: My list coincides with a lot of choices, but they’re fun to make, lists are, and I sometimes spend insomniac hours making them up. So here’s mine:

    Guerlain: Jicky, Mitsouko, Sous le Vent, Vol de Nuit
    Chanel: Cuir de Russie (haven’t lived with the others)
    Rochas: Femme, the original
    Balmain: Jolie Madame, Vent Vert (again in vintage version)
    Piguet: Bandit, Fracas
    Dior: Miss Dior, Diorissimo, Diorling, Eau Sauvage
    Yves Saint Laurent: Y, Rive Gauche
    Caron: Tabac Blond, Poivre, Nuit de Noël
    Patou: Joy, Sublime
    Coty: Chypre, Emeraude
    Knize Ten

    These are the perfumed pillars of wisdom… The other classics I haven’t lived with so I’ve left out Opium and Chanel n°5 which should necessarily be part of the classics. November 7, 2006 at 1:12pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Madelyn, great list! Thank you for sharing it. Halston is such a classic, and I am ashamed to admit that I have not tried it yet. My American perfumery education is a bit belated, I have to admit. While French perfume classics could be found in Ukraine when I was growing up, nothing like this could be said about American fragrances. Ok, there was an exception–Polo is the only I remember from those days. November 7, 2006 at 2:07pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Portlandia, I was hoping to see your list, because I knew that you would mention something fascinating that I would have forgotten about. “Schocking de Schiaparelli, Rochas Femme, Madame Rochas, Guerlain Habit Rouge, Caron Yatagan, Geoffrey Beene Grey Flannel, YSL Opium, Gres Cabochard, Guy Laroche Fidji”–cannot agree more! The only reason I did not mention Cabochard and Schocking is because they have been reformulated so badly. I simply do not recognize them anymore. Rochas Femme fared better, but the new version smells cheaper to me. Still, it is a good reformulation as far as they go. November 7, 2006 at 2:10pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Laia, I very much admire fragrances by Myrurgia. Maja is one of their most outstanding perfumes. Many of their fragrances were created by Jean Carles, one of the greatest perfumers of the 20th century. Maderas de Oriente is not the one I am familiar with, although I know of it. Your description is simply gorgeous. Thank you for sharing your list. November 7, 2006 at 2:15pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Benvenuta, your list is very diverse and terrific on all counts! Thank you. I tried to limit myself to the pre-80s period, although it was rather a way to make this task manageable. Among the modern perfumes, I would say that Angel is definitely the one with the classical status. Its popularity is incredible. November 7, 2006 at 2:17pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Laia, I remember that I liked L’Eau d´Issey when it first came out, but it is one of those fragrances that I grew tired of rather quickly. Of course, one has to marvel at the genius of this composition. I just would not want to wear it anymore. November 7, 2006 at 2:18pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Dmitri, what a great list and a fascinating one to read through! “Belle Epoque Guerlain – the most delicate tuberose.” I have never tried this fragrance. I hope that you shall write more about it at some point. Guerlain and tuberose–now this sounds like a match made in heaven (for me). 🙂 November 7, 2006 at 2:20pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Dusan, Chanel pour Monsieur is definitely a chypre not to be missed. Its omission on my list is unexcusable.

    As for the classical status, it is both the year of creation and the popularity, the ability to influence trends. Not everything old is a perfume classic. Many perfumes appeared only to vanish completely shortly thereafter. Guerlain’s range was incredible, but the fragrances that are still with us are the ones that truly passed the test of time. Of course, it does not mean that everything now discontinued was not well-done. Sometimes the extraneous circumstances interfere. November 7, 2006 at 2:23pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Marina, what a great list! I feel like lobbying the Guerlain for the return of Djedi. I love Dior too (must be my memories of Miss Dior and Diorissimo as worn by my mother). November 7, 2006 at 2:25pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Flor, Givenchy III is a great chypre. I recently passed up a small discount perfume store in Midtown and was surprised to see a shelf full of Givenchy III bottles. Many of vintage Givenchy fragrances were quite beautiful.

    L’Heure Bleue is excellent–in fact, I am amending my list to include it, since it is a great representative of a floral oriental family. November 7, 2006 at 2:27pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Judith, I would love Guerlain only for Sous Le Vent alone. What a beautiful chypre! Your list is excellent, not surprisingly at all. Lancome Cuir is another fantastic fragrance that I have tried thanks to you. It is a leather heaven. November 7, 2006 at 2:29pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: March, I am not hiding my Guerlain bias. 🙂 On another hand, the house is responsible for so many remarkable fragrances that it is impossible not to talk about it. November 7, 2006 at 2:30pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: March, Arpege was reformulated really well–it retains the classical character, while adding a few modern touches. I do not mind that reformulation. The only reason I did not add it to my list is because I wanted to limit it to the most representative fragrances in each genre. It is hard, since I love the floral-aldehydic family. I had to mention White Linen, since it is the American perfume classic. November 7, 2006 at 2:32pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: R, just a spam attack, which unfortunately happens from time to time. At any rate, it is a great list, thank you so much! Joy is beautiful, a fragrance to try to know what the high quality jasmine and rose smell like. November 7, 2006 at 2:34pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: D, your list is wonderful, I was so happy to see Jolie Madame on it. She is a lovely sister of Bandit, another great Germaine Cellier’s creation. November 7, 2006 at 2:37pm Reply

  • Donald: My “classics” by familly (sorry for the french-english):
    Hespéridés : eau sauvage Dior,
    Floraux : Nahema Guerlain (rose), Pour un homme Caron (lavande) Diorissimo Dior (lily), N°22 Chanel (green), Joy Patou (bouquet): Poivre caron (œillet).
    Floral aldéhyde : Arpège Lanvin (N°5 Chanel is a draft !). Métallique ? Rive gauche YSL
    Fougère : Jicky Guerlain
    Ambre doux : Shalimar and Habit Rouge (brother and sister) Guerlain
    Ambrée fleuri épicés (so « Compliqué » ! Sorry, I love all) : l’heure bleue and Après l’ondée Guerlain, Narcisse noir, En avion and Farnesiana Caron, and the best ! Vol de nuit Guerlain.
    Ambrée fleuri boisés : Bois des Iles Chanel or Chamade Guerlain ??
    Semi-ambrés fleuri : Youth dew E. Lauder (so sweety !) or Royal Bain de Champagne Caron?
    Gourmant : Angel Mugler
    Chyprée fruit : mitsouko Gerlain (The number one) but I like Colony Patou too…
    Chyprée : pour monsieur Chanel
    Chyprée cuir : Bandit Piguet, so hard !
    Chyprée vert : Miss Dior, No! I prefer Polo RL!
    Leather : Tabac blond, Cuir de Russie Chanel…
    Boisée : féminitée du bois, bois et violette S. Lutens
    And Océanique : vétiver Annick Goutal
    Donald November 7, 2006 at 2:50pm Reply

  • michel: -chanel : n°22(parfum), n°19 (parfum), pour monsieur
    -guerlain : mitsouko (parfum), jicky ( eau de toilette), waiting for “cachet jaune”
    -dior: eau sauvage
    -hermes : doblis, eau d’hermes
    -rochas : femme(parfum),lumiére (vintage), moustache
    -malle: en passant, le parfum de T…, noire épice
    -azzaro : Acteur
    -caron : nuit de noel, pour un homme, fleurs de rocaille
    sorry one DISCONTINUED : “le fruit défendu” de rosine (l’osmothéque)because it’s deeply me !!! November 7, 2006 at 4:11pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Donald, a round of applause for you. Thank you very much for a great list! Seeing Rive Gauche on it is a delight. It is one of my beloved fragrance, the one I was sad to see altered. November 7, 2006 at 5:17pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Michel, another Doblis fan! Thank you for your list. I was so curious to see Cachet Juan on it. I cannot wait for Guerlain to reissue it. November 7, 2006 at 5:24pm Reply

  • Sonia: hmmmm I don’t see hypnotic poison on anyone’s list!
    so here are my choices..
    hypnotic poison
    opium
    and hypnotic poison *grins* November 7, 2006 at 6:54pm Reply

  • carmencanada: What is Cachet Jaune by Guerlain? I’ve never heard of it… Is it really being reissued or is this just wishful thinking?
    Donald, I wouldn’t classify Miss Dior in its original version as a chypre vert, it’s definitely got some leather going under those flowers.
    And yes, Patou’s Colony, which I’m dying to find in extrait: it’s just such a witty scent. An entirely different family from the iconic Patous.
    How could I forget Shocking and its entirely distinctive rose-civet trail?
    I see the Lutens have not made it on many lists. Somehow one doesn’t think of them as classics. I wonder which of them will pass the test of time (and I’m an admirer)… November 7, 2006 at 7:41pm Reply

  • k-amber: All lists are wonderful and very convincing 🙂 I admire many Hermes fragrances and believe Caleche is a class for me as well as Madame Rochas. I love to try some of Caron again but they are not easy to find here, so sad 🙁

    Kaori November 7, 2006 at 8:19pm Reply

  • patchamour: Great lists, Victoria, and everyone. Caron Bellodgia, Tabac Blond and Narcisse Noir, Chanel Coco and Cuir de Russie/ Lauder Private Collection and Knowing/ Guerlain Mitsouko/ Gres Cabochard/ L’Artisan Passage d’Enfer/ Serge Lutens A la Nuit/ Donna Karan Black Cashmere and Labdanum/ Antonia’s Flowers Tiempe Passate/Carthusia Fiori de Capri/ Rochas Femme — agk! Can’t stop! November 7, 2006 at 11:30pm Reply

  • evilpeony: Hi Victoria! I’m a long time lurker, first time comment-er. Your site is an inspiration! My faves: L’Heure Bleu (I thought I cannot stand this scent, but now, I can’t get enough of it,) Vol de Nuit (love at first sight) Poison, Coco Mademoiselle, 1000 by Patou, Diorissimo (vintage), Nina Ricci’s Capricci and L Air du Temps (80’s formulation)… Glamorous by Ralph Lauren. I loved Eau Savage too at first sniff, but it needs further testing before I upgrade its membership to THE LIST. I don’t like Nahema *sorry* … it reminds me of gaz (a Persian sweet made of pistachios, rosewater and nougat coated in flour- very very delicious, but don’t want to smell like it. *runs away as far as possible* November 8, 2006 at 1:34am Reply

  • Laia: VICTORIA: It´s delicious to see you know about Myrurgia. My mother used to put on Maja sometimes and she said it was the favourite fragrance of taxi drivers. But as always no one is a prophet in his own country so fashion was to put on French perfumes and my mother´s was ” Je reviens” by Worth. I envy all of you because in Barcelona ( and in the rest of Spain less so) it is impossible to find old perfumes like Vol de Nuit or Cabochard or Femme de Rochas or l´Heure Bleue. And of course I have to buy all the perfume books in Paris( I have found ” The emperor of scent” it´s a myracle). Myrurgia made a somptuous book two years ago about its history and it is marvellous. I have some friends who collect antique perfumes and they have a great collection on Myrurgia´s.from the 20’s. November 8, 2006 at 3:57am Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Sonia, I guess that I made a cut off before 1980s, but yes, Hypnotic Poison is a wonderful fragrance, comforting and seductive at the same time. November 8, 2006 at 2:52pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: D, Cachet Jaune is a fragrance created by Guerlain in 1937, an oriental with the quintessential Guerlain vanilla. I hear that it is supposed to return, and I am looking forward to it.

    I made a cut off point for myself before 1980s, so Lutens did not make the cut. I think that in order for something to qualify as a classic, it should withstand the test of time and that test should be at least 20 years. I have no idea where this comes from. Nowadays, if something is on the market for more than 5 years, it is already a classic automatically. I need to think more about this. November 8, 2006 at 3:04pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Kaori, Caleche is incredible! I especially love it in the parfum. I am sorry that Carons are proving to be so difficult to locate. I am not sure if their website is of any help. November 8, 2006 at 3:12pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Patchamour, what a great and diverse list! Estee Lauder Private Collection is another fascinating fragrance. I need to revisit it soon. November 8, 2006 at 3:26pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Evilpeony, thank you so much! It is great to see you commenting, and it is a pleasure to read your list. No need to duck about Nahema. 🙂 It took me some time to fall in love with it. November 8, 2006 at 3:28pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Laia, oh, thank you very much for sharing this great story! Yes, when I was growing up, French perfumes were considered the true fragrances. But Myrurgia is such a fascinating line. I wish I smelled more of its fragrances. November 8, 2006 at 3:30pm Reply

  • benvenuta: Maybe we could do another list of 80s and 90s scents… There are very few of them that can be called classics already, but there are also some that should be “required sniffing” for a perfume enthusiast just because of their popularity. Things like Poison, Coco, Paris, Obsession… November 8, 2006 at 9:49pm Reply

  • Mercedes Rey: Hi, everybody! Laia, have you visited the shop in Madrid called “Barfumeria”? They have many vintage fragrances, including the ones from Rochas you are looking for. Take a look at the web page and the blog (I write reviews for them!) November 9, 2006 at 8:25am Reply

  • stephania: I think nobody mentioned Bal a Versailles by Desprez, but it’s a great classic in my opinion, and a great fragrance. It starts off very lady-like, but it’s got a beatiful animalic drydown. And Royal English Leather and Tabarome by Creed, Derby (original version), and L’Autre Dyptique – so unusual, it must be a classic.
    And, even if it’s not a classic La Nuit by Rabanne. I discovered it a few weeks ago and now I’m obsessed: it’s so dirty and vulgar, it’s fascinating! There is nothing quite like it: I’m seeking a subsitute, as I know it’s discontinued, but so far I havent found anything remotely similar! November 9, 2006 at 10:57am Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Benvenuta, this sounds like a wonderful idea! I will be sure to take up this task soon. Thank you for being the inspiration. November 9, 2006 at 10:31pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Mercedes, I had no idea that they carry the retro as well as the niche. I also did not know that you write for them. November 9, 2006 at 10:32pm Reply

  • Bois de Jasmin: Stephania, there are no excuses for not mentioning Bal a Versailles! it is a beautiful fragrance, striking, elegant and memorable. I am tempted to put it on right now. Like you, I love La Nuit. Unfortunately, I bought a bottle recently and ended up returning it–the fragrance was not the way I remembered it to smell. Perhaps, it was just my bad luck. I will look for another bottle. November 9, 2006 at 10:34pm Reply

  • Sonia: Hello Victoria,
    Can you tell me which is softer of the two, Chanel No5 EDT or EDP?
    I just received EDP as a gift today so i was just curious.
    Thanks,Sonia December 3, 2006 at 5:54pm Reply

  • BoisdeJasmin: Sonia, I find the EDP to be softer. The EDT is brighter and sharper. Enjoy your present! December 3, 2006 at 11:09pm Reply

  • ruxandra ene: very interesting lists!I guess mine is :Rochas-Femme(because my mother used to wear it when I was a litle girl),Byzance;Chanel-No.19,No.5,Coco;Lancome-Tresor;CK-Escape,Eternity,Contradiction;Rabanne-Calandre; December 7, 2006 at 11:56am Reply

  • Mimi in Taiwan: I was intrigued to see the mentions of Maderas de Oriente, which was my mother’s signature evening perfume, and in my opinion one of the classics. I have searched for it for years (Maya, yes, but no Maderas anywhere, and today almost no one has ever heard of it). I was told Shalimar was almost identical, but it’s sweeter; Maderas de Oriente is drier, and never overpowering, as Shalimar can be. I would love to track it down, as well as my long lost and much loved Crepe de Chine by Millot and the fresh Muguet toilet water which I believe was made by Coty for many years. Glad to learn that some of my old favorites truly do not smell the way they used to; I thought my nose had changed.
    Rive Gauche is just one of many that aren’t what they used to be.
    –Mimi December 9, 2006 at 11:28pm Reply

  • Belle de Crecy: In no particular order:

    Miss Dior
    Parfum Sacre
    Chanel 22
    Apres L’Ondee
    Chamade
    Habanita
    Bois des Iles
    Femme
    Tocade
    Le Dix
    Patou 1000 (my wedding day fragrance)
    Diorissimo
    Calandre ( Startling
    Feminite du Bois
    Arpege
    Y (Yves Saint Laurent) July 18, 2007 at 9:25pm Reply

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