Shanghai greeted me with the shimmer of rain and neon lights, and within hours of landing, I was already on stage at Notes Shanghai, a major perfume exhibition, speaking about the future of niche perfumery.
I shared a thought that stayed with me throughout the fair: the future of perfumery will belong to those who can tell stories with sincerity. The industry does not need more polished copies of Parisian classics; it needs new voices, new references, and new ways of translating memory into scent. In Shanghai, I felt as if I was watching that future take shape.
Once my presentation ended, I wandered through the exhibition hall. The first day seemed lively, even as the exhibition hall was still in the final setup stages. Brand owners spoke with visitors, indie perfumers put the final touches on their displays, buyers compared notes. The mood was relaxed, almost festive. I have been to many fragrance events, but Notes Shanghai stood out. It felt alive, spontaneous, and genuinely joyful. Every stand was like an invitation to discovery.
While there were a number of high-profile international brands, the focus of Notes Shanghai is on independent brands from Thailand, Malaysia, and of course China. It’s the first major platform in China to support small artisans and local niche houses. I spent the next three days smelling dozens of creations, from fragrances crafted in small studios to those made in collaboration with well-known perfumers like Dominique Ropion, Annick Ménardo, or Quentin Bisch. What struck me most was the sense of freedom. These perfumers were unafraid to experiment, to use local materials like osmanthus, hawthorn, pomelo, ginger lily–or yak excrement*. They built their own olfactory language and delighted in it.
It reminded me that the perfume world is much wider than the European tradition often suggests. China has a rich sensory heritage that runs through its tea, incense, and cuisine. Modern Chinese perfumery is drawing on these traditions and transforming them into something new.
The Beautiful and Unexpected
Two things surprised me immediately. The first was how scent associations can differ across cultures. In China, sandalwood incense is often used in public restrooms, so for many people it carries an everyday familiarity rather than a sacred or meditative tone.
The second was how deeply food influences fragrance trends. Northern by Soulvent, an award-winning perfume built around hawthorn, recalls the sweet-sour candies sold everywhere in China. Other perfumes played with notes of rice and Sichuan pepper, sometimes rendered figuratively, sometimes in the most abstract ways.
And despite the cliché that Asian consumers only prefer light fruity florals, I smelled many bold, textured perfumes: smoky woods, ouds, and spices. I learned that wearing oud is considered auspicious, a sign of good fortune.
Rare Gems
The best part of the fair, however, was meeting people. Visitors ranged from journalists and collectors to curious perfume lovers who simply came to smell. They asked thoughtful questions and shared impressions freely. Being able to speak with them in Chinese, made the exchange even more meaningful.
Another highlight was the Osmothèque exhibit, which brought a collection of thirty-three historical perfumes. Smelling these treasures alongside the new creations from Asian perfumers created a beautiful dialogue between heritage and innovation. I spoke with Thomas Fontaine and Anne-Cécile Pouant, the president and director of the Osmothèque, and we agreed that it was thrilling to observe people’s reactions to these masterpieces.
New Fragrance Scene
Notes Shanghai takes place twice a year, an impressive rhythm for such a large and well-organized event. It reflects the vitality of the Chinese perfume scene and its growing influence on the global fragrance landscape. I also had the honor of serving as a judge for the Golden Osmanthus Awards, which celebrated some of the most creative new perfumes in Asia.
I will share a few of my favorites and behind-the-scenes impressions in my upcoming newsletter. If you would like to discover which fragrances caught the experts’ attention and why, you can subscribe here: Bois de Jasmin Newsletter. A few lucky subscribers will also receive a small sample set of outstanding perfumes.
As I left Shanghai, I realized that the future of perfumery is already here—open, curious, and unafraid to smell different. Notes Shanghai was over, but my journey in China was just beginning.
If you love perfume, put March 2026 on your calendar. The next edition of Notes Shanghai promises to be even more exciting, and there is no better place to experience how the world of scent is changing.
*Yak excrement tincture is an ingredient used by an indie Chinese house called Shennong. In all honesty, it smells wonderful, warm, woody, with a sun-warmed hay nuance. I enjoyed Shennong’s boldness so much that I met Da Fo, the mastermind behind it, in his studio in Chengdu. Stay tuned for that rollercoaster experience!
Photography by Notes Shanghai 2025
26 Comments
Kimberly: Thank you for sharing your experiences with your fellow perfume enthusiasts! November 3, 2025 at 9:28am
Victoria: It’s a fantastic event. November 3, 2025 at 11:59am
PrincessTonk: Victoria, you look as beautiful and bright as ever. November 3, 2025 at 10:04am
Victoria: Thank you. That is such a kind thing to say. It was a beautiful and lively event. November 11, 2025 at 8:57am
Bernadette Saeuberli: Thank you Victoria for sharing about your experience at Notes Shanghai. It is indeed quite exciting . Wouldn’t it be great if there would be such a fair in Europe as well? November 3, 2025 at 10:34am
Victoria: They actually have an event in Paris, collaborating with Perfume Week. November 3, 2025 at 12:00pm
Victoria: Thank you, Bernadette. I agree, it would be wonderful to have something like Notes Shanghai in Europe. The atmosphere and creativity there were truly special. November 11, 2025 at 8:56am
Sarah Patton: I wish I could attend such a fair! November 3, 2025 at 11:21am
Victoria: It really is such a wonderful experience. November 11, 2025 at 8:56am
Anastasia: Thank you Victoria for your lovely description and photos of Notes Shanghai. Looking forward to your next article describing strange Chinese fragrant ingredients! November 4, 2025 at 5:55am
Victoria: Thank you, Anastasia. I’ll be writing soon about some of the most unusual ingredients I discovered there. They were fascinating and unlike anything I had seen before. November 11, 2025 at 9:04am
Marianne: I loved reading your nuanced and vivid descriptions of this event, Victoria. They almost made me feel as though I was there with you. Thank you so much for bringing the experience to life for me to enjoy and learn from, to expand my horizons. Your words painted a wonderland. I wonder if China could bring these perfumes to the world. November 4, 2025 at 7:14am
Victoria: Thank you, Marianne. I’m so glad the article brought the experience to life for you. China’s perfume scene is growing so fast, full of imagination and promise. November 11, 2025 at 9:04am
Aurora: Congratulations for your presentation at Notes Shanghai, Victoria. With your love of traveling I can tell that this visit to China was memorable for you. Looking forward to your newsletter for more insights on fragrances presented at the event. The Osmotheque 33 historical perfumes event sounds like something I would have adored too. November 4, 2025 at 7:29am
Victoria: Thank you. It was a memorable experience indeed. I’m looking forward to sharing more about the perfumes and the atmosphere in the next newsletter. November 11, 2025 at 9:03am
Karen Dubin: Thank you for your description of Notes Shanghai, it certainly does sound like an olfactive wonderland… very unique from other shows and fairs. Always love reading your impressions! November 7, 2025 at 5:20am
Victoria: Thank you, Karen. Notes Shanghai was indeed like a sensory wonderland, so full of creativity and experimentation. November 11, 2025 at 9:03am
Karen A: Sounds like an amazing event! And what a glorious photograph of you!! November 7, 2025 at 5:31pm
Victoria: Thank you, Karen. That means a lot. The event really was amazing, full of energy and color. November 11, 2025 at 9:03am
Neva: This sounds amazing! I wonder when it will be possible to smell some of the Chinese perfumes in Europe…Congratulations on your work in Shanghai and thank you for the draw. November 10, 2025 at 9:22am
Victoria: I wish more were available here. I was impressed with packaging and presentation, especially from small, artisanal lines. November 11, 2025 at 9:06am
Sebastian: Thank you for this article, that so vividly conveys the atmosphere of “Notes” and the excitement that these bold innovations bring to the world of perfume!
I’d love to try Shennong perfumes, and also the passionfruit chypre by Moebius. Unfortunately, they do not sell to Europe at this time. It is to be hoped that – seeing how curious everyone is about them – these perfumes will become more widely available. November 10, 2025 at 12:43pm
Victoria: Thank you, Sebastian. I hope those brands will soon be available in Europe. The creative energy at Notes was extraordinary. November 11, 2025 at 9:02am
Klaas: Oh, it seems you had a blast at Notes! It sounds like a such a inspirational event. Hawthorn and yuk excrement, not for the faint of heart 😱 November 10, 2025 at 5:15pm
Victoria: It was fun! Hawthorn smells pretty, though. Like a green apple with a red berry twist. November 11, 2025 at 9:01am
mithun gowda: This excerpt effectively sets a vivid, atmospheric tone, immediately drawing the reader into the author’s experience in Shanghai (“shimmer of rain and neon lights”).
The core philosophical point about the future of perfumery is compelling and insightful. The idea that the industry needs “sincere storytelling,” “new voices,” and a shift away from “polished copies of Parisian classics” is a strong, forward-looking thesis. It positions the “Notes Shanghai” exhibition as a crucial, cutting-edge event where this future is actively taking shape.
The writing is elegant and purposeful, making the reader eager to see which specific scents or perfumers at the exhibition exemplify this “new future November 17, 2025 at 7:00am