I arrived in Kramatorsk in April to blooming apricot trees. Now, in September, this city on the advancing front lines of eastern Ukraine stands dressed in autumnal colors. Some days, the grape leaves turning crimson catch my attention before I notice that another building has been destroyed during the night. What’s impossible not to notice is how the city is dying–the streets are emptier, the parks deserted, the homes abandoned. In any other war, all of the newspapers would be writing about Kramatorsk, but this war has been going on too long, and everyone is tired.
I stay here to do volunteer work, helping with civilian evacuations. In my free time, I study Chinese, write, and give perfume seminars online. If you follow me on Substack, you also know that I have rescued a kitten, and now my teaching assistant is present whenever we talk about accords and notes.
Some of the articles you might find interesting about my life:
I also started a series on perfume study, based on only 10 materials. Later, we will expand our palette and learn how to work with other ingredients:
Perfume Lesson 6: Fall in Love with Clary Sage
Perfume Lesson 5: Lavender Master Class
I also have a series to deconstruct iconic fragrances:
The Anatomy of an Icon: Diorissimo
The Anatomy of an Icon: Christian Dior Eau Sauvage
And since I still wear perfume, I write perfume reviews:
Chloé Cedrus Intense Perfume Review
Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfume you are wearing. If you received recommendations from this thread, please let us know what you sampled.
How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!
To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
4 Comments
mia: demon dancer by ex nihilo! bright+ addictive dry down, unique September 7, 2026 at 9:24am
Mark Valetutto: Mia, you’ve piqued my curiosity! I haven’t tried Demon Dancer yet, but the rhubarb, blood orange and peppermint sound intriguing. Does that brightness stay through the drydown, or does it become warmer and woodier? I’d love to know what makes it so addictive for you. September 7, 2026 at 10:43am
Mark Valetutto: Victoria, today I’m wearing Ruby by Kajal for the first time, and it has taken me somewhere wonderful: back to the confectionery stores of my childhood.
Its combination of fruity sweetness, almond, creamy notes and vanilla brings back the whole experience—seeing the colorful treats, smelling them together, choosing something new, then tasting and enjoying it. Most vividly, I remember the pleasure of being treated by an adult and how special that made me feel.
What surprised me was how completely the feeling returned. I could almost feel that childhood anticipation again. The fragrance seemed to unlock a memory in which sight, smell, taste and affection were all stored together.
As someone who composes fragrances, I find that fascinating. We can build a sweet accord, but the wearer’s own history gives it emotional meaning. For me, Ruby smells like being treated. I was back in that confectionery store.
Has a perfume ever brought back an entire childhood experience for anyone else?
Mark Angelo Valitutti September 7, 2026 at 10:34am
Esther H Cohn: I kept reading about Guerlain Vanille Planifolia
Extrait 21. I bought a very expensive tiny sample and do love it. Is it really worth $660 a bottle? The reviews are all spectacular. September 7, 2026 at 10:37am